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I have a 1984 C-10 pick up, it has a 427 big block in it. I am running around 200 deg. normally at cursing speed. I have a Champion alum. radiator, edelbrock high flow water pump and 160 deg thermostat. Is that a normal running temp for a big block?
Fred
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The first thing I would do is check the thermostat even if it's a brand new one. You can do this by putting it in a pan of water and raise the temperature of the water and see if thermostat opens fully. I would also check to make sure that if you have a viscous fan, that it is functioning properly. Is there a fan shroud on the backside of the radiator? Is the front side of the radiator clean and able to get good airflow?
1973 L-82 4 spd
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200 does not seem that bad if that's where it stays.
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sippy208 said: I am running around 200 deg. normally at cursing speed.
Perhaps if you stop cursing at it, it might run cooler.....
I agree with Gary...200 doesn't sound too hot for a big block runnin down the road to me. What temp does it run stopped, or in traffic?
Joel Adams
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just put a new water pump, high flow alum. did not have a chance to see what it runs in traffic yet
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yes have a shroud and a good fan and champion alum radiator, nothing blocking air flow in front. Have not had a chance to see how it runs at stopped or in traffic, snow on ground where I live
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Temp gauges are notoriously incorrect. Do you have a laser temp gun?
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What temperature does it run at at highway speeds?
1973 L-82 4 spd
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Hello, Fred... I hope this helps you AND fellow Vette owners...
Your answer might not rest with the thermostat or temperature gague. It may rest with your temperature sending unit.
My 1971 350 always ran hot since I bought the car until I personally replaced the wiring harnesses from 'Lectric Limited, throughout the car. The engine compartment harness temperature sending connector on the replacement harness would NOT mate with the block's sending unit. My initial thought was that the sending unit was replaced with a newer unit and they started coming with new connector style. But, after spending the money and time replacing the harness, I could not bring myself to cut the clip and splice a 'modern' connector to keep the install moving along. Instead, I did a bit of research and found that the appropriate sending unit with the proper tab is still being made. I bought it, installed it and took note of operating temperature on the cluster gague...IT WAS NOW RUNNING NORMAL!!!
It really matters using the right components. It seems that temperature sending units are CALIBRATED to certain gague designs. In this case, the auto stores list suitable substitutes based on thread size, but not thermo-electrical calibration.
Consider checking calibration compatability between your sending unit and the cluster gague.
Tony
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This is why I suggested using a laser temp gun.
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in Forum: General Automotive Discussion
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