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j
After having my clutch replaced my car now wont go into reverse and has a hard time with 1 and 6th gear. the mech said it will work its way out but I feel something's not right... can anyone help me. Plus the clutch use to release almost all the way out before engaging now I cant hardly move my foot with it to the ground before it kicks in....please help me
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Sounds to me like the clutch isn't disengaging the drive and needs further adjustment.
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22715
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
It would help to know the year model, but it sounds like the hydraulics need to be bled properly. This can sometimes be a real pita to do.....take it back and tell them to bleed the dang thing. It ain't gunna "work itself out".
Joel Adams
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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Here's a trick that might help, did on mine after having the clutch master and slave replaced. There is gooseneck in the line right over the master cylinder on my 86. Couldn't get the last of the air out no matter what I tried.
|UPDATED|6/27/2014 6:18:57 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Former GM mechanic suggested something to try: Pump the clutch 4 or 5 times then hold it to the floor for about 5 minutes with the cover off the master and a little space in the reservor. At the end of the 5 minutes, slide your foot off the clutch and let it pop up on it's own and it can push any residual air back into the reservor. Did it on mine and firmed it up alot, did it again for good measure.
I have a rock solid clutch since doing that and no clutch problems since.
Good luck.
PS - My mechanic said he's worked on alot of hydraulic clutches before but this was the first Vette. Said he'd worked over 4 hours on a lift with both having someone work the clutch pedal and using a power bleeder and never was able to get all the air out before I took a shot at it. I don't think he wasn't to see it again if that clutch master or slave ever go out again.
|UPDATED|6/27/2014 6:18:57 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
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Send PMMontgomery, AL - USA
Joined: 4/19/2012
Posts: 50
Vette(s): 1986 Gray/Blue Z-51 Coupe & 1998 Pewter Coupe
Thanks hcbph for that tip. I had a similar problem on a truck that I never completely fixed.
Fred
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k
In the 'Haynes' manual, they say on models BEFORE 1988, u HAFTA remove slave from bellhousiong, hold it so where the hyd. line goes into slave cyl. is the HIGHEST p-art, then you bleed the usual manner. air gets trapped when slave isn't in that position. AFTER 1987, That operation isn't required!! YEAH !, bet the Engineer that REALLY works on his cars thought that up, i bet !!! i have a quest. All of a sudden, My slave, or ? was leaking when i was in LOTS of traffic. Couldn't get it in gear. I always put it in Nuetral at stop lights. Pushed car to side of road. Went to NAPA, and got brake fluid [the right kind], and put it in Master cyl. Then kept pumping clutch pedal for 5 minutes, and the pedal became firmer. Shifted fine. Then for a week, no problems, no fluid under car. Then, about a week ago, it started acting up again. I got it home BARELY, looked and master cyl. was below hole for hyd. line. Filled it up, put cardboard under bell housing, and the next day you=know-what-happened. I'll jack it up, and see vas ist loos! tomorrow.
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in Forum: C4 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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