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Still plenty of time before cruising season is back here so I got a bunch of stuff pulled out from under the hood including the hood.
Had a leaky radiator so I got a DeWitt Direct Fit. Pulled the fan off, removed the plastic air intake things and took all the screws out of the shroud.Got the radiator out, but it wasn't exactly a walk in the park. Tried to remove shroud first but no way, so they came kinda together.
I don't want to beat up the new one going in like I did the old one coming out. Thanks in advance for any ideas or tricks of the trade.
Also replacing hoses and noticed upper hose appeared to have some kind of sealant on it. Do you put sealant on hoses before clamping them on?
Thanks, Jeff
Had a leaky radiator so I got a DeWitt Direct Fit. Pulled the fan off, removed the plastic air intake things and took all the screws out of the shroud.Got the radiator out, but it wasn't exactly a walk in the park. Tried to remove shroud first but no way, so they came kinda together.
I don't want to beat up the new one going in like I did the old one coming out. Thanks in advance for any ideas or tricks of the trade.
Also replacing hoses and noticed upper hose appeared to have some kind of sealant on it. Do you put sealant on hoses before clamping them on?
Thanks, Jeff
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Moses Lake, WA - USA
Joined: 4/16/2005
Posts: 2134
Vette(s): 1976 L48 4-spd, Mahogany Metalic exterior, Buckskin interior 350ci/350hp, 3rd owner, fiberglass spring, 255/50-16's Torq-Thrust II
I had the same problem when I did mine. The engine was out when I put the new one in which helped. Guess you don't want to pull the engine
. Try taping a sheet of cardboard over the core to protect the fins
. Try taping a sheet of cardboard over the core to protect the finsBe the first to like this post
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Send PMYelm, WA - USA
Joined: 7/12/2007
Posts: 356
Vette(s): 1979 L82 4 speed Scat 383 crank 190 cc Procomp Aluminum Heads 202 160 stainless valves GM Powder metal rods Speedpro H860CP Hypereutectic pistons 280 cam hydralic HEI Pro comp 1.6 roller rockers Mighty Demon 750 Sanderson CC1AP Hedders.
That's good adive to tape the cardboard on it
. I dropped my whole radiator AC fan shroud assembly back in using my engine hoist. I don't know about sealant for the hoses????? but now I'm thinking something on there might not be a bad idea for when you want to get the hose off later on down the road. I had to cut off all my old hoses cause they were not coming off any other way.
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Only Bubba uses sealant on hoses.
It means you don't have a proper fit between the hose the the barb on the radiator or the engine.
If the barb is dented, it will likely leak.
Make sure use use the proper clamp.
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Send PMManteca, CA - USA
Joined: 11/20/2005
Posts: 3623
Vette(s): 1978,two tone,Metalic Rootbeer & gold
1975 L48 4 speed
After disconnecting the shroud, pull it back to the motor, then lift the radiator out. The shroud comes out last, if ya want it to, and don't forget to put it back in 1st 
. No need for any sealant on a properly sized hose . There is a special tool for loosening hose ends ( about $6. ) Looks like a crooked screwdriver with a pionty end, works great.aceinthehole 2008-02-22 15:01:56
. No need for any sealant on a properly sized hose . There is a special tool for loosening hose ends ( about $6. ) Looks like a crooked screwdriver with a pionty end, works great.Jimmy B.
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Send PMYelm, WA - USA
Joined: 7/12/2007
Posts: 356
Vette(s): 1979 L82 4 speed Scat 383 crank 190 cc Procomp Aluminum Heads 202 160 stainless valves GM Powder metal rods Speedpro H860CP Hypereutectic pistons 280 cam hydralic HEI Pro comp 1.6 roller rockers Mighty Demon 750 Sanderson CC1AP Hedders.
[QUOTE=aceinthehole]There is a special tool for loosening hose ends ( about $6. ) Looks like a crooked screwdriver with a pionty end, works great.[/QUOTE]
That's cool I'm going to try and find one of those tools. When he mentioned sealant I just got to thinking about how none of my old hoses wanted to come off, thought their might be a better way to skin that cat.
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Send PMHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
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Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
To assemble, put the shroud back first. With the hood off and someone assisting you on the other side of the car, slide the radiator in at it's normal angle. Mine went right in! LukesVette 2008-02-22 18:39:22
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i have not used a sealant but have used neverseize on all bolts and hose connections ,just watch it cause a little neverseize goes a long way
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I own a radiator shop. The advice here is right on. From the cardboard or plexi-glass over fins to the anti-seize. Like Luke says you really need 2 people to set radiator in mounts. Lots easier. Oh, one exception here, what Glen said, " DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT PULL THE ENGINE"!!!
my7T1 2008-03-05 09:44:42
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[QUOTE=my7T1] Oh, one exception here, what Glen said, " DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT PULL THE ENGINE"!!! [/QUOTE]
Since I pulled the old radiator I also remove all the stuff on the front of the engine and got it down to a timing chain cover that's crying out "Please take me off and give me a new coat of fresh paint". Them I crawl underneath and look at the oil pan and the dried out control arm bushings and on and on and on.
Could someone please come up here and slap me in the head a few times before I end up having to ride my bicycle all summer.
[/QUOTE]Since I pulled the old radiator I also remove all the stuff on the front of the engine and got it down to a timing chain cover that's crying out "Please take me off and give me a new coat of fresh paint". Them I crawl underneath and look at the oil pan and the dried out control arm bushings and on and on and on.
Could someone please come up here and slap me in the head a few times before I end up having to ride my bicycle all summer.
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in Forum: C3 HVAC, Fuel, Emissions, and Exhaust
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