Heater hoses, taps or disconnect

Gidday, I have been looking at all the posts for the problem of the over heating in the passenger compartment.

Rather than installing taps to turn on and off, were the heat can still work past the taps, can you just diconnect the hoses from the pump and thermostat housing. Then get another piece of hose and connect it to the outlets from were the heater hoses came from ?

I think this is the general idea I was looking for - instead of cutting and installing the valves to turn on and off, I want to just take the heater core out of the equation.  As to where you perform that bypass, I'm not sure of any need to do it anywhere special...

Hi manget1,

When my heater core went belly up I disconected the heater hoses and used a 5/8 x 3/4 adaptor to conect them together so the water still flowed, and put rubber nipples on the copper heater core tubes. Everything work ok. 

My question is what happens to the heater core if you bypass it completely? 

On my 72 the heater hoses from the factory made a loop from the engine to the heater to the overflow tank. What I did was just run both hoses to the tank and it looks clean and does not seem to be a problem.

[QUOTE=bio11]On my 72 the heater hoses from the factory made a loop from the engine to the heater to the overflow tank. What I did was just run both hoses to the tank and it looks clean and does not seem to be a problem.[/QUOTE] Not able to follow that, are the 2 hoses from the heater going to the tank, what about the 2 from the engine, did you plug them? If you ran any hose from the engine to the tank, that's no good, you will no longer have a pressurized cooling system. Can you give us more detail?

On the 72 LS5 you have one hose from the engine to the heater core, one from heater core to the tank, and one from the tank back to the engine. The radiator cap is on the tank not the radiator. So you are taking the heater core out of the loop, so you eliminate one hose and just have one from the engine to the tank and one from the tank back to the engine. It makes no difference in your pressure. your just eliminating one hose and the heater core from the equation. I'm not familiar with how later models are plumbed, but this is nice and clean on mine.

Back when you could order "Heater Delete" cars, they just had a plug in the intake and water pump.  There was no bypass hose at all. So obviously you can do anything from valves, to bypassing, to just plugging.  As far as the heater, If your core is full of soggy crud, it might harden with no water in it, but if you have been keeping your cooling system reasonably clean, brass certainly does not rust, so there should be no problem down the road.

Larry

[QUOTE=bio11]On the 72 LS5 you have one hose from the engine to the heater core, one from heater core to the tank, and one from the tank back to the engine. The radiator cap is on the tank not the radiator. So you are taking the heater core out of the loop, so you eliminate one hose and just have one from the engine to the tank and one from the tank back to the engine. It makes no difference in your pressure. your just eliminating one hose and the heater core from the equation. I'm not familiar with how later models are plumbed, but this is nice and clean on mine.[/QUOTE] Thanks for filling me in, I did not know that.