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Update on the A/C business:
No joy with the Freeze12, but I must have a leak in the system somewhere. It stayed charged for 3 weeks, that's it. I'm gonna bite the bullet and start replacing components. It's weird that it will hold vaccum for hours and then leak out in a few weeks. I'm assuming that the compressor is the problem, any ideas from any of y'all??
No joy with the Freeze12, but I must have a leak in the system somewhere. It stayed charged for 3 weeks, that's it. I'm gonna bite the bullet and start replacing components. It's weird that it will hold vaccum for hours and then leak out in a few weeks. I'm assuming that the compressor is the problem, any ideas from any of y'all??

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The most likely part to leak on a car is the hoses that is allways the first ideam to replace,If the compressor works odds are its good,there are seals or rubber o rings were the hoses attach to the compressor those can leak if you have ever opened up the system, thats a good place to start.
you can use a dye in the system to find the leak but it has to be charged for that to work, I use a electronic sniffer . Or a cheaper approach would be a bottle of leak check that you just spray on the connections and see if it bubbles ,if you lost your charge in three weeks you have a fairly good leak how about the shraider valves were it gets charged have caps on those ?
you can use a dye in the system to find the leak but it has to be charged for that to work, I use a electronic sniffer . Or a cheaper approach would be a bottle of leak check that you just spray on the connections and see if it bubbles ,if you lost your charge in three weeks you have a fairly good leak how about the shraider valves were it gets charged have caps on those ?
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Yes, I have caps on both high and low sides. If it is the hoses, will they hold vaccum, but still leak?
I really don't know much about A/C, but starting with the cheapest part of the system makes sense. Since I'm gonna start replacing stuff, I'm gonna recharge with R134a. The problem I had the first time was that it wouldn't build up enough pressure. It cooled (sort of) for about 5 days. The high side never got above 200 psi. That was why we went with Freeze12, it doesn't require as high a pressure. The R134a wouldn't draw in after 200 psi. Maybe the O rings in the hoses won't hold above that pressure, and leak down slowly. What order would you do things?
I really don't know much about A/C, but starting with the cheapest part of the system makes sense. Since I'm gonna start replacing stuff, I'm gonna recharge with R134a. The problem I had the first time was that it wouldn't build up enough pressure. It cooled (sort of) for about 5 days. The high side never got above 200 psi. That was why we went with Freeze12, it doesn't require as high a pressure. The R134a wouldn't draw in after 200 psi. Maybe the O rings in the hoses won't hold above that pressure, and leak down slowly. What order would you do things?
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Hoses,o-rings,dryer filter check all fitings for tightness. If you ever opened up the system thats were the leak most likely is other wise I would bet on the hoses even new ones allow some lose of freon just nothing significant.if there 20sothing years old there going to leak have your mechanic put a die in the system when he charges with 134a and you use a black light to look for the leak since your going with 134a you can afford some trile and error plus the ideams I sugested for replacement for the leak will also prep your system for the new freon,remember to drain the oil fron the condenser in front of your regular radiator should be a plug on the bottom if not open a connection drain replace o-ring and reseal .............Good luck
|UPDATED|7/11/2003 5:47:44 PM|/UPDATED|
|UPDATED|7/11/2003 5:47:44 PM|/UPDATED|
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Alright, got the list. Thanks for your help! I'll post when I get it all worked out.
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in Forum: C3 HVAC, Fuel, Emissions, and Exhaust
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