Sign In to Like this post
Moderator

While it would really be best to install the drivetrain before the body drop, ya gotta do it it which-ever way is good for you and your time/$$.
Brake/fuel/vapor return lines must be installed before the body. Fuel tank would be easiest now, also.
Really sounds like ya got it all under control, Matt.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Sign In to Like this post

C3VR Lifetime Member #93
Sign In to Like this post
I'm with Adam on the body drop. So much easier to do drive train before it goes on. You can do all your body work while it's off the frame as long as you are properly supported. One advantage to that is your frame stays lookin' sharp. I even painted mine on the dolly before it went on the frame.
It really is lookin' good!

Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
If your gaps were right or even close before you took the body off, then you shim the car on the dolly to make them fit like they did on the car. I hope you remembered to count the shims at the body mounts when you pulled the body. If so, all you should need to do is put the same number of shims back. When you are glassing in the front bumper, be sure to put your hood on, movement at the front will affect how the hood fits. I did all my heavy body work on mine before the body came off, made sure everything fit like I wanted to.
I'm looking at your picture, that's not a brake line running by your carrier and strut rods is it?

Sign In to Like this post
well, I didn't keep track of the shims, but I dont think it really matters anyways since most of the body mounts had to be replaced and that would change the number of shims needed anyways. Also, I have no idea how the doors fit before the body came off the frame since they were already off when I got the car. One of the many difficulties of buying someones project they couldnt finish.
I think what your seeing as a brake line is the heat shield for the fiberglass monoleaf.
Thanks for the advice and Im open to any more suggestions
Sign In to Like this post
You can still do a lot of body work on the dolly. Since you're going to have to re-shim, just start with the pass. compartment, get it stable and level. Firewall mounts, sill mounts and the mounts forward of the rear wheels. If your sill plates are good that will give you a starting point to hang your doors and fit the nose and rear section to it.
What's remaining for you to do on the body?

Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post

Sign In to Like this post