New Front Calipers and Pads Installed - Problem bleeding/Pedal

I pulled the trigger on the Motive Bleeder Set. Like Norsky suggested I will put the car on jackstands and bleed the whole system. This car has one bleeder on the front calipers. I think the Mightyvac could have been pulling air around the threads like F4Gary said, makes sense. I was wondering how the Motive system could be better but I see how it pushes the fluid instead of pulling on the system like the bleeder screw types. Another question. The master had some fine rust in it, I sucked out all of the fluid and put new in. Is it possible some rust is clogging something? Would it be harmful to remove all fluid, take apart the lines on the front where they meet the hoses, and blow air in the front resevoir holes on the master?

You have to re bleed the entire brake system. Start with the passenger side rear, (it’s the longest line) then driver’s side rear. Then passenger front and finally driver’s side front. If this doesn’t fix the problem, you have a leak somewhere in the system usually a worn out brake line. The short rubber ones fail before the metal ones in most cases. They are easy to replace, metal lines, not so much. Hope this helps.

When you use your Motive, don't try to use the chain clamp system they have.  Use a piece of angle iron/aluminum and a big C-clamp to clamp the Motive top to the master cylinder.  When you are done, put the Motive  on the floor and relieve the pressure in the tank by unscrewing the top so the fluid in the hose can flow back to the tank as you unclamp it.

Some folks don't put fluid in the tank and just use it as a positive pressure source on the master.  I tried that and blew all the fluid out through the caliper and had to start all over.

Brake fluid is cheap so buy more than you think you need.

I have one of those critters! Cannot get a good seal from the top to the mastercylnder. Pressure will not build to force fluid or air out. Brand new! Using pedal is better. 

I finally ended my brake bleeding nightmare by gravity bleeding them.  It was the only way I found that let fluid run through REMOVE air without pushing air bubbles back and forth. Before I figured this out I swear I was buying DOT 3 by gallon, pumping the pedal endlessly and never seeing a clear stream from the bleeders. 

I read lots of threads about the wonders of the Motive tool… but I also read a lot of threads from guys that couldn’t get a seal at the master. Didn’t want to spend more money on a tool that may or may not work for me. Just my $.02. 

steve

Sounds good but on one side I get nothing coming out, even with the hose disconnected from the steel line. I'm thinking the system, the master, and proprtion valve are vapor locked or something. 

Ok up on jack stands all around. Trying gravity bleeding. I have fluid coming out of all bleeder screws! How much should I let come out to ensure the air is out?

For me, it was until fluid came out w no air bubbles. It’s rather slow, fluid just dribbles out rather than getting pushed out in a jet. 

I used a long clear tube off the bleeder screws so I could watch the bubbles moving.

Just make sure reservoir doesn’t run dry.  

Probably because they tried to use the supplied chains and wing nuts instead of a C clamp to secure the top to the master.

I've not had a problem with it not sealing.

Good to know. If (when) I have to crack open the brake system again, I will give the Motive bleeder a try.

I recall at the time I was just feeling rather raw from spending so much on replacement calipers (my second set) and many, many quarts of DOT3 🙂. Another tool seemed like a bridge too far.