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7
Just gotta share! Long story ahead!
For over a year now, Julie (my Vette) has not ran to ultimate performance. As a matter of fact, I had some major problems; exhaust leak, cooling (couldn't go more than 10 minutes on the highway), VERY STRONG fuel smell, electrical problems (windows stayed down 
...), firing problems with similar symptons to Barry (I've been following that thread closely...).
...), firing problems with similar symptons to Barry (I've been following that thread closely...).So 2 weeks ago, I decided to spend some money and get the parts I had in the garage for 6 months to a year installed; new headers, chambered exhaust and aluminum radiator.
When I dropped the car over there 2 weeks ago; I barely made it; "puff puff puff" like Barry would say 
; and almost staled when stuck at red lights. They couldn't work on it right away, so they kept it inside for the first 2 days. They then called me and said "Man, you know about that fuel leak ? We all got a headache now.". I said "Well, I've been trying to trace it, but I haven't found it yet. Let me know if you see something." They gave me another call later the afternoon telling me that my fuel pump is leaking real bad. I felt like an idiot; I traced all the lines under the car (I always thought it was the return line), and I did not even see the leak at the fuel pump.
; and almost staled when stuck at red lights. They couldn't work on it right away, so they kept it inside for the first 2 days. They then called me and said "Man, you know about that fuel leak ? We all got a headache now.". I said "Well, I've been trying to trace it, but I haven't found it yet. Let me know if you see something." They gave me another call later the afternoon telling me that my fuel pump is leaking real bad. I felt like an idiot; I traced all the lines under the car (I always thought it was the return line), and I did not even see the leak at the fuel pump.They said they would take a shot at adjusting the carb concerning the rough idle, but not spend a whole lot of time on it unless I specificallly ask them to fully adjust it for a few $$. I told them to just "take a peak" at it, but don't waste your time (and my money), I'll take care of it later.
So last week I get the car back and I'm really happy about the new fuel pump, radiator, headers and exhaust, but it's still really rough. Again, barely made it back to the garage, so I havent' had a chance to experience the new goodies.
Thursday night, I decided to take a look at the spak plug wires because for some odd reason, I though I had the order wrong. They were okay, but I immediatly noticed that 2 tubes of my new headers were still shiny black and all others were already gray'ish. Cylinder 1 & 3. So I did some research and found too many possible explanations (and some of them were really scary....).
Because it could be too many things, I decided to start with the basic; make sure that the ignition is working properly. The dist. cap was perfect and I cleaned the metal tab on the rotor. I don't have points, so we can eliminate that. I then pushed back on all the wires and tried to time it using a vacuum guage (it was my first time trying this method). Next; I pulled the wires for 1 & 3, and noticed that they didn't look good at all. I had some spare wires, so I replace those two. Started the car and BOOM; cylinder 1 was back!
Following the same logic, the next step was the spark plugs. I pulled #3 and not only it was covered with oil, it was gapped to ZERO. That's right; ZERO, NADA!
(I have plenty of good things to say about the guys who just did all the work, but that was not too smart on their part.... I'm guessing they dropped it on the floor and didn't look at it... anyway, I hope that's the reason....). So I gapped it and while being there I looked at #1 too; it was a little bit off. Put the plug/wires back; crossed my fingers and started the car. Guess what ? #3 was back as well!
(I have plenty of good things to say about the guys who just did all the work, but that was not too smart on their part.... I'm guessing they dropped it on the floor and didn't look at it... anyway, I hope that's the reason....). So I gapped it and while being there I looked at #1 too; it was a little bit off. Put the plug/wires back; crossed my fingers and started the car. Guess what ? #3 was back as well!A re-timed it and let it idle for a good 5 minutes. Smoke started to come out near/around cyl. 1 & 3. I shut the car off right away and looked at the plug again. It was fine! Then it dawned on me; the cylinder was not shiny black anymore; I was just burning the paint! So I restarted it and let it idle for another 10 minutes. I could follow the smoke, as it was slowly burning the paint going down to the collector. When the smoke thing was over, I took it for a spin.
WOW! I couln't believe it; I had the Vette for almost 2 years now, it was running pretty good when I first got it, but now, it's running like it never did before. The temperature stayed at 198 EVEN the whole time; including highway, the chambered exhaust sounds really good and it's not loud at all like some have claimed. The flowmaster that was there was way louder. It idles perfectly, it's got punch at any speed and there is no more fuel smell. And as a bonus, the windows came back up without a fight.
I can finally put the interior back together and start driving it!
My next step is the suspension; can't wait for this one! Just have to pile a little bit more money as it will be more $$$ that I had planned.
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Send PMMaldegem, Belgium
Joined: 1/5/2006
Posts: 774
Vette(s): 350/350 T-top
1970
Cortez silver -blue interior
good for you ! hope i find my problem now ...
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Lifetime Member
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Send PMModerator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22742
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Atta Boy!!!
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56 
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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Lifetime Member
Send PMHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6813
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
How'dya spose those two plugs got to a 0 gap - happened to me once and it turned out that they were protruding too far into the cylinder and getting knocked around by either a valve or the piston...live and learn!! LukesVette 38801.818599537
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7
Barry, sounds like you found it, you're just waiting for the parts now...
Paul, my guess was that it dropped it on the floor while trying to install it; falling on the "anchor"; assuming that it was about 7 floors down.
.I drove it about 18 miles and it was idling perfect on the way back, so it would seems like they didn't get knocked. I will drive another 15-20 and pull them out again. Thanks for the tip!
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Great news. It's a huge jump from 6 cylinders to 8. Glad to hear of the progress.
On the "Tail of the Dragon"
(some day, no strike that, October 2008 it turned red, still in progress!)
(click either image to see a bigger version)
(some day, no strike that, October 2008 it turned red, still in progress!)
(click either image to see a bigger version)
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Send PMKingston, PA - USA
Joined: 11/26/2003
Posts: 636
Vette(s): 1977 L-82 originally white/buckskin interior.
Currently undergoing a frame-off resto. and modifications.YEEHAW!!!
Just goes to show you the power of a good old tune up.
Good job, now go kill the tires.
Alan
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IF spark plugs get tapped and closed, they are the wrong plugs. The reach is too long. There should be no way plugs should get touched
But sometimes plugs will close. If cylinder is too hot the tips can loosen up and drop in the insulator, or the botton electrode can soften in the heat and get distorted by cylinder pressure.
Too hot of a cylinder is usually the result of a lean condition due to carb adjustment, or a vacuum leak. The leak can affect only one cylinder.
Of course, they could have been installed with the wrong gap, or none, by someone there before you.
Glad to hear it's running well
On the "Tail of the Dragon"
(some day, no strike that, October 2008 it turned red, still in progress!)
(click either image to see a bigger version)
(some day, no strike that, October 2008 it turned red, still in progress!)
(click either image to see a bigger version)
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Send PMIrving, TX - USA
Joined: 8/21/2004
Posts: 4286
Vette(s): #1 -1969 Corvette Coupe Riverside Gold, black interior,MN,A/C,350/350,PS,PB,window cranks.
#2 -2000 C5, black/black, 6 sp, Bose system & lots of buttons.
Right on! I know your feelin' good now!
I've got a simular problem....after it gets warmed up real good and park it. I get back in and it doesn't want to start right away and you have to give it a couple of tries. Finally get it started up and she'll backfire and then want to die, give it a little gas and she'll backfire some more.
It's also hesitating sometimes in first, second & third...no poop and gives some backfires. What the
?? 
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MICK - C3VR Lifetime Member #113
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Micki,
It sounds like your car is running too lean. If it does not do this cold, it is too lean. You need some carb repair. After it backfires, does it operate okay once acellerating, or does it just continue to backfire?
I suspect the acellerator pump in the carb in not working. Remove the air filter and look right down the carb with the engine shut off. Make sure the choke plate is open. Fully open the throttle while looking down in the front section of the carb, the two primary bores. You should see a stream of fuel in each one. If not, it's the acellerator pump.
On the "Tail of the Dragon"
(some day, no strike that, October 2008 it turned red, still in progress!)
(click either image to see a bigger version)
(some day, no strike that, October 2008 it turned red, still in progress!)
(click either image to see a bigger version)
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in Forum: C3 General Discussion
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