What else to replace while doing trailing arms?
Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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Okay, I'm gonna get whole new trailing arm assemblys. I was thinking of staying with the stock brakes, but what else should I do while I'm at it? Steel Braided brake lines instead of the rubber ones?
I'm also going with the stainless steel shims. Is there anything else that you can think of? The trailing arms that I'm getting come completely installed with spindle, bearings, flange, and stainless steel parking brakes. I just want to make sure I do everything so I don't have to touch the trailing arms again. Thanks!
Glenn
I'm also going with the stainless steel shims. Is there anything else that you can think of? The trailing arms that I'm getting come completely installed with spindle, bearings, flange, and stainless steel parking brakes. I just want to make sure I do everything so I don't have to touch the trailing arms again. Thanks!
Glenn
Glenn's Bright Blue 75 T-Top
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

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Send PMHot Springs, AR - USA
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definitely the braided lines
Im redoing my whole car with stainless steel..
if someone wants to restore it with original bolts and shims later on.. fine.. with stainless in it now you are actually helping preserve the car for future "correct" restoration.
im not saving any of my old bolts except as a reference for where they go.. they are rusted so bad they could never be used for show anyway.
Im redoing my whole car with stainless steel..
if someone wants to restore it with original bolts and shims later on.. fine.. with stainless in it now you are actually helping preserve the car for future "correct" restoration.
im not saving any of my old bolts except as a reference for where they go.. they are rusted so bad they could never be used for show anyway.
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c
When I did my trailing arms I also completely rebuilt my rear suspension with a new spring , shocks, u-joints, etc. Also my rear diff was making tons of noise so I had that rebuilt at the same time. It needed a new yoke because it was egged out.
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R
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Send PMKEYPORT, NJ - USA
Joined: 7/6/2002
Posts: 506
Vette(s): 1973 Stingray Coupe and C5 and C6 Coupes.
While you are there, at least also do the U-joints and replace the bushings (I recommend polyurethane, it last longer).
When I got to the rear drive train on my 73 I did like others have mentioned... pretty much dropped and rebuilt/replaced the entire rear suspension. Had the differential serviced, new fiberglass spring, shocks, poly bushings, ... everything.
I only want to have to do this job 1 time.
Also, when replacing nuts, bolts, washers, etc. make sure you use the right grade. Stainless Steel may last longer, but as with any bolt (nut, etc.), make sure they are the right grade for the job they need to do.
Good luck
When I got to the rear drive train on my 73 I did like others have mentioned... pretty much dropped and rebuilt/replaced the entire rear suspension. Had the differential serviced, new fiberglass spring, shocks, poly bushings, ... everything.
I only want to have to do this job 1 time.
Also, when replacing nuts, bolts, washers, etc. make sure you use the right grade. Stainless Steel may last longer, but as with any bolt (nut, etc.), make sure they are the right grade for the job they need to do.
Good luck

1973 Coupe
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in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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