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New ball joints and control arm bushings got this started. Now new calipers and rubber parts. It should be a different car!

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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22715
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
dbarnesid said:..The mechanic said GM dipped the frames so the cars are not authentic without runs. Interesting.
Well....kinda sorta....

As far as the t-arm bushings, those really are best left to someone that has the correct tools, and know-how to install them properly. Those bushings are the ONLY thing on my '74 that I had someone else do, because I dint have the tool to swedge the end of the tube on the bushing, and I dint care to buy one. The service manual does havee instructions on how to make the tools needed, tho. Bu that would prolly cost more than buying the dern thing anyway....
If the t-arm bushings are not done correctly, the alignment will never hold, and the handling could be nasty.
Joel Adams
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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Save yourself tons of time and money and get fully loaded trailing arms from Bairs or someplace like that and just swap eveything out. They come complete right out the new rivited rotors and all e-brake hardware installed. Did mine on the floor with just jackstands, out in a few hours and back in in a few hours.They will cost less than what you were quoted on labor. Or get the rebuilt arms and take to your mechanic and it should reduce your labor costs substantially. Just my 2 cents.


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DanT
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in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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