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n
Hello everyone, I have sort of a dumb question but I know someone will have the answer.
Can the timing on a HEI distributor get off it's mark from just a couple of years of driving no more than 10,000 miles? I can get a timing light and check it but I'm just curious before I start fooling around with anything. The car (76) just doesn't feel the same lately.
I checked a couple of plugs and they looked fine.

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Welcome to C3VR. Your question isn't a dumb one. Ask away, we are here to help you along with your journey in a C3.
Your timing shouldn't change unless the distributor hold down clamp is loose or... the vacuum advance doesn't work or... the mechanical advance inside the distributor become stuck or... timing chain becomes stretched out severely.
How many miles are on your engine? Why do you say the car doesn't feel the same lately?
GEN III 5.7L "LS6" Engine swap
TKO500 5 spd.
3.54 Dana 44
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I agree - unless the clamp has come loose and the distributor is "bumped" the timing should not change. Normal wear and tear on components can cause small shift in timing, but nothing major. If the timing chain has become loose, you can experience a major shift in timing and poor engine performance. I will ditto the previous reply with "how many miles?" as this is also helpful in troubleshooting issues. Has the rotor and cap been changed? Plug wires, coil? Vacuum lines and hoses? lots to consider - Fuel, air, electrical?
|UPDATED|8/16/2014 4:29:50 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
|UPDATED|8/16/2014 4:29:50 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
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RE;LS6 engine swap.
Purchased a 2001 with the 5.7 Liter, and wow, what a difference from my 79 350/300. How much trouble was the swap, and what did you end up spending to complete the conversion?
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n
Thanks everyone for the help. And thanks for the welcome. In reality, I have not driven the car much this summer. I live in Florida and although I do have A/C, it has been hot which helps thunderstorms pop up from nowhere and I try not to drive it in the rain. I took it out last week and had to replace the ignition module so I put a new rotor and cap on the distributor and it seemed to be fine. I drove it this morning and it seemed to idle a little rough but when I got on an open road and had a chance to get on it a little, it didn't miss or stutter but it felt a little off on the normal power. I have about 10,000 miles on it since I had the engine rebuilt with another cam, pistons, aluminum heads and intake. I'm going to check the vacuum hoses tomorrow. I guess if I would drive it a little more I would get the feel of how it is suppose to fun.
Again, thanks everyone.

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n
I want to clarify my mileage over the last couple of years. I only drive it at most 2000 miles a year. The 10,000 miles was since I had the engine rebuilt.

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nevr2ol said: Thanks everyone for the help. And thanks for the welcome. In reality, I have not driven the car much this summer. I live in Florida and although I do have A/C, it has been hot which helps thunderstorms pop up from nowhere and I try not to drive it in the rain. I took it out last week and had to replace the ignition module so I put a new rotor and cap on the distributor and it seemed to be fine. I drove it this morning and it seemed to idle a little rough but when I got on an open road and had a chance to get on it a little, it didn't miss or stutter but it felt a little off on the normal power. I have about 10,000 miles on it since I had the engine rebuilt with another cam, pistons, aluminum heads and intake. I'm going to check the vacuum hoses tomorrow. I guess if I would drive it a little more I would get the feel of how it is suppose to fun.
Again, thanks everyone.
RE;LS6 engine swap.
Purchased a 2001 with the 5.7 Liter, and wow, what a difference from my 79 350/300. How much trouble was the swap, and what did you end up spending to complete the conversion?
Rick,
The swap was a challenge since there is no "kit" out there to make it a simple bolt in. I spent around 6k doing everything…from rebuilding a 5.3L L33 engine into a 5.7L LS6 spec engine down to the last bolt. Would I do it again? Not a C3, maybe something with a bit more room under the hood. I'd be glad to PM you with details if your interested.
GEN III 5.7L "LS6" Engine swap
TKO500 5 spd.
3.54 Dana 44
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n
Sarge, the control module manufacture is a good question. I tried to look this afternoon but didn't see any markings. When I bought it, I was surprised it was only 21.00. The last one I bought was over 30.00. In your opinion, it seems this could be a problem, am I correct?

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nevr2ol said: Sarge, the control module manufacture is a good question. I tried to look this afternoon but didn't see any markings. When I bought it, I was surprised it was only 21.00. The last one I bought was over 30.00. In your opinion, it seems this could be a problem, am I correct?
Ya never know. I try to stick with AC Delco stuff. I've had problems in the past with the cheaper aftermarket stuff. If you still have the old one, try switching it for the new one and see if your problem goes away.
GEN III 5.7L "LS6" Engine swap
TKO500 5 spd.
3.54 Dana 44
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nevr2ol said: I took it out last week and had to replace the ignition module so I put a new rotor and cap on the distributor and it seemed to be fine. I drove it this morning and it seemed to idle a little rough but when I got on an open road and had a chance to get on it a little, it didn't miss or stutter but it felt a little off on the normal power.
There's a key item...WHY did you have to replace the module? Did it run ok BEFORE replacing the module, and then felt down on power AFTER replacing the module? It's possible you got the incorrect module for the ignition....there are many different types of modules, and the modules HAVE to match up with the coil. The incorrect(or a faulty) module will definitely mess with the ignition timing. I would start with that, if the engine was running fine before the module switch....

Did you apply the heat sink grease to the underside of the module when you installed it?
Also....you could have just gotten some crap fuel....

|UPDATED|8/18/2014 6:08:01 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
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