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Former Member
Send PMSan Antonio, TX - USA
Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 117
Vette(s): 1973 Corvette Roadster
Elkhart Green, 300hp 4-spd // 2003 Millinium Yellow Coupe
I am replacing my front brake rotors on my 73, It wasn’t until after I got the new rotors home I noticed that there were no hubs (?) on them. (not sure what the center piece is called) The old one’s have the hubs riveted on, and appear to be original to the car.
Did I get the wrong ones, or do I need to drill the old one’s out. If this is the case, can I just bolt them on to the new rotors?
Thanks in advance
Rick
BTW, Entered the car in it's first car show last week, took third place!!! Lucky for me it's a convertible, or I would have never been able to fit my head in the car to drive home. |
Did I get the wrong ones, or do I need to drill the old one’s out. If this is the case, can I just bolt them on to the new rotors?
Thanks in advance
Rick
BTW, Entered the car in it's first car show last week, took third place!!! Lucky for me it's a convertible, or I would have never been able to fit my head in the car to drive home. |
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h
Guys, how many rivets and where are they located? Thanks.
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5 Rivets located between each of the 5 wheel studs
Al
Al
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h
thanks Al.
where do you get the hardware to remount the rotor to the hub?
where do you get the hardware to remount the rotor to the hub?
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I just did my rear 72's once the Rivets were drilled out - i wiggled,squiggled, cursed and pulled the rotor of the hum - took a little time and a few sore fingers -but the rotor finally slid off - cursing always helps
Al
Al
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Sorry left out the most important part - according to previous posts - "unless you want a trailer queen - no need to re-revit unless you are a gluton for punishment"
AL
AL
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h
got it. the studs stay in the hub and the new rotor is placed over the hub as a cap. thanks
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Lifetime Member
Send PMHot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
| apasbigal said: Sorry left out the most important part - according to previous posts - "unless you want a trailer queen - no need to re-revit unless you are a gluton for punishment" AL |
Amen Brother!!!
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x
You did alright buying the rotors. Make sure you index them to the hub flanges, after you clean, check and repack the wheel bearings then install new grease seals.
You have to drill out the rivits to remove the old rotors, you need a dial indicator to index (make true) the rotors torqued to the hubs. If the runout is more than .005, rotate the rotor to the next position (next stud) and recheck. Our Vetts have floating calipers, it makes life more difficult.
You have to drill out the rivits to remove the old rotors, you need a dial indicator to index (make true) the rotors torqued to the hubs. If the runout is more than .005, rotate the rotor to the next position (next stud) and recheck. Our Vetts have floating calipers, it makes life more difficult.
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Lifetime Member
Send PMHot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
| xfire said: Our Vetts have floating calipers, it makes life more difficult. |
shouldnt this be "...don't have floating calipers.."
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