Revisit the debate: oil for flat tappet cams

I need to change my oil so I thought I'd restart this debate: what oil is a good choice for those of us that still have flat tappet cams?  It's been discussed many times, I know, and my choices are still clear as mud.  I'm not really sold on the idea of just a typical synthetic designed for newer cars, such as Mobil 1.  I'll go synthetic if I need to, but what I'd really like is a conventional that has the proper levels of zinc (or suitable substitute) to properly lubricate the cam and lifters.  Also looking to not break the bank.  I've found many sources on the 'net (including Bob is the Oil Guy) that say Shell Rotella is a good choice, but there are many others that say it's not.  (not enough Zinc/ZDDP).  So what do you guys think?  Any of you that have a new or recently rebuilt flat-tappet cam motor that can tell me what you're using?  What about you guys that are all-original?  Any horror stories out there of flattened lobes due to an incorrect oil choice?  Thanks in advance for the advice!  

The Rotella doesn't have the same amount of ZDDP as it used to, since the newer sneezles have converters on them, too. Not saying it's not good, just that it is not as good as it was 10 years ago, in that respect.
Brad Penn & Joe Gibbs Racing have engine oils that DO have the proper amounts of zinc to keep your lifters and cam happy. Not sure about the cost, but considering what a new cam/lifters, and labor to replace cost, seems like a good trade off...."Pay me now, or pay me later...".
You can also buy bottles of zinc additive in some places, and you can also get cam break-in additive to put in at each oil change. The options are boggling, as you already know.
On the same subject, most newer made cams & lifters should be designed/made to withstand the pressures better than older designs, but they still need help.
If I were to go to the trouble to build the engine with a flat tappet, I would have to give in and buy oil that has the correct amount of ZDDP in it, and be satisfied that the cam/lifters would survive much longer.


|UPDATED|12/26/2012 8:37:37 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Thanks guys.  I know there's a local chain (Baxter's) that carries the Joe Gibbs, in fact that's what I have in there now.  It's expensive, but not that bad and I think there might even be a conventional version vs. the synthetic that I bought last time.  I'll either go with that or I may go with the Lucas additive with regular oil.  Baxter's has that too.  Joel, what you're saying about the Rotella is very similar to what I've read, too.  Used to be a good choice, and it still may be, just not a for sure good choice.....

I can only speak for the Brad Penn oil as that is what I am using. When I went to start my engine for the first time I put Brad Penn 10-30 in it. Just before trying to start I happened to look down at a bottle and I saw it said Partially Synthetic. I waited and called the Brad Penn engineering group. They confirmed that the Brad Penn oil is a partially synthetic oil with the correct amounts of ZDDP. But they also warned me against using that oil as a break in oil. For that they make a straight 30 weight non synthetic break in oil. Not to be used long term but for break ins only. I follow their direction and have no issues to this point. Hope that helps.


Rodney

It does, Rod, thanks.  But I haven't seen the Brad Penn stuff in any local stores, though, I think I'd have to order online.  But I have a feeling it's similar to the Joe Gibbs stuff that I'll probably end up using.  I used Comp Cams break-in oil for my break-in and then changed to the Joe Gibbs after 100-200 miles.  

Valvoline VR-1 has a very high ZDDP, and they say they will never change the formula.

I see Lucas has an oil out now for hot rods and classics with a high level of ZDDP.

I ended up just buying Quaker State 10W-30 and a ZDDP additive for this time.  I'll obviously report back if anything goes wrong, but I think I'll be OK.  Thanks guys!