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Replacing Old Nuts and Bolts

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Replacing Old Nuts and Bolts

Posted: 3/29/04 12:58pmMessage 1 of 8
L
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Tulsa, OK - USA
Joined: 2/3/2004
Posts: 14
Vette(s): 1970 Corvette, T-Top, I found this car under stacks of Magazines in a garage. The car needs a lot of TLC but is original.
Hello, I am in the process of restoring a 1970. The vet has been sitting since 1982 and has rust everywhere. I have the body off and am looking at a lot of rusted nuts and bolts. I am going to have the frame blasted and really didn't want to use the same rusted nuts and bolts to put it back together. Do they make a kit that would make it easier to replace the rusted hardware or is this going to were I take the bolts in to the dealer for sizing?
Lloyd
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Replacing Old Nuts and Bolts

Posted: 3/29/04 1:24pmMessage 2 of 8
h
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MENTOR, OH - USA
Joined: 9/15/2003
Posts: 577
Vette(s): 1979 L-82, dark blue
I've used this guy to replace some screws and nuts under my hood. you might want to give him a call. his name is Doc at http://www.totallystainless.com, 717-677-8811. he has a catalog too. good luck
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Replacing Old Nuts and Bolts

Posted: 3/29/04 4:54pmMessage 3 of 8
m
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Joined: 6/16/2003
Posts: 252
Never seen a complete kit, but Paragon has a lot of original type fasteners available new. I buy a lot of lesser-seen bolts at Lowes; They have a great selection of grade-8 bolts and nuts.
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Replacing Old Nuts and Bolts

Posted: 3/29/04 4:58pmMessage 4 of 8
P
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Wayne, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/31/2002
Posts: 973
Vette(s): White 1975 L48 Stingray 129,000 Miles, daily driver.
Not the cheapest way to do things, but I've used the local GM/Chevy dealer for this kind of part, there is a dealer in the area that specializes in parts and they had everything I needed on hand. Haven't checked to see if those $25 bolts were cheaper elsewhere because frankly I don't feel like knowing how much I got ripped off. However, they've got the parts catalogs and built diagrams to make it easy to get the nuts and bolts.

Scot
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Replacing Old Nuts and Bolts

Posted: 3/29/04 6:33pmMessage 5 of 8
L
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Tulsa, OK - USA
Joined: 2/3/2004
Posts: 14
Vette(s): 1970 Corvette, T-Top, I found this car under stacks of Magazines in a garage. The car needs a lot of TLC but is original.
Thanks for all the replies. I contacted totally stainless and they are sending me a catalog of the products. It is a little pricey but the package they had on the body bolt sounded like something worth getting. They come pre-labeled, which will help out, allot.
Lloyd
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Replacing Old Nuts and Bolts

Posted: 4/2/04 7:34amMessage 6 of 8
f
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Lawrenceville, GA - USA
Joined: 10/25/2002
Posts: 121
Vette(s): 1968 427 coupe and 96 LT4 six speed Gran Sport clone
Hi, my name is Phil, and I sell fasteners for a living. You might want to consider something beside stainless as the are as soft as a grade 2 low carbon steel. My recomendation would be grade 8's with gr. 8 nuts to insure total fastener integrity. Won't be ncrs specs, but stainless isn.t either, so be safe, be sure and use the grade 8 products |saluteflag|
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Replacing Old Nuts and Bolts

Posted: 4/2/04 8:48amMessage 7 of 8
B
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Damascus, MD - USA
Joined: 12/17/2003
Posts: 247
Vette(s): 1970 Conv. 350/350, Wht./Blk.,P/W P/B,P/S,TT, 4 Spd.
If you have the body off have u considered blasting the original hardware and having it correctly replated?

Eastwood makes a blackening kit for the hardware that was originally black phosphated. They also make a kit for Zinc plating which I have not used so I do not know how well it works. I have used the blackening kit on the GTO I sold and it works well.

If you have a numbers matching car you may want to go this route if the hardware is not rusted beyond reason.

Hope this helps,




Bill
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Replacing Old Nuts and Bolts

Posted: 4/2/04 4:28pmMessage 8 of 8
L
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Tulsa, OK - USA
Joined: 2/3/2004
Posts: 14
Vette(s): 1970 Corvette, T-Top, I found this car under stacks of Magazines in a garage. The car needs a lot of TLC but is original.
Thanks for the great ideas. I have called several dealers about nut and bolt kits. They are sending catalogs of different kits I can order. Phil, thanks for the tip on the grade 8, I will keep this in mind when I make my bolt selection. The rust on this car is pretty bad, even the upper body mount bolts were bad enough that I had to cut two of them off. The car isn't a numbers matching car since the block had been replaced with a 327-block form a 210 hp Camaro. So I am not bothered with the thought of making sure all the nuts and bolts are original. I am building the engine to have somewhere around 425hp so I do want the frame to be nice and sturdy.
Lloyd
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