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Here is what I'm working with....
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Whats a good drill bit size to use while drilling out those rivets?
Sorry for all the questions...but ya know what they say "to be old and wise you must first be young and stupid."
I'm in the "young and stupid" phase.
Sorry for all the questions...but ya know what they say "to be old and wise you must first be young and stupid."
I'm in the "young and stupid" phase.
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You can not remove the caliper without disconnecting the line the brake line. To drill out the revets: First remove the caliper and plug the brake line so fluid doesn't flood everything. Then put the lug nuts on the to hold the rotor in place. Next use a center punch to mark the center of the revet, then use a 1/8 drill, drill in about 3/8" deep, then step up to a 3/8" drill to remove the revet cap. The revet looks like a "T". You need to drill off the top of the "T". Good Luck.
(click to see a larger image)
"It Takes A Little Longer To Do It Right"
"It Takes A Lot Longer To Do It Again"
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WETVET...thanks for the response. I'll take the advise on the drilling. Doesn't look like too hard of a job...but any job involving drilling anything makes me a little weary. I got the caliper off...capped off the brake line with one of the many bolts from my "spare parts" collection 
I'll start the drilling when I find the time this weekend. Hopefully all goes well.
I'll start the drilling when I find the time this weekend. Hopefully all goes well. Be the first to like this post
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L
Former Member
Send PMFallon, NV - USA
Joined: 7/25/2007
Posts: 43
Vette(s): 1978 Coupe, Red w/black leather interior, L48, Auto, A/C, Power Windows, Cruise, Tilt/Tele.
Shane,
I had a problem a while back that I swore was an E brake problem for some of the same reasons you state but turned out not to be. I offer this link http://www.VetteRegistry.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70528 as something to check out since some of what you write reminds me of the problem I experienced. This may be way out in left field from what you have going on but thought I'd offer it up since you haven't pinned down the cause yet and some of what you say reminds me of my toys problem.
Worst case, you read it and delete it. Best case, you have the same thing happening that I had and can easily fix it.
Just thought I'd throw it out there for consideration. Good luck Shane.
Ernie
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Ernie: Thanks for the info. Since the car is up on jack-stands I will go ahead and change the diff. fluid and add only 1 bottle of additive. Can't hurt right?
Im swamped with work and school papers, but hopefully I will get to it this weekend.
Im swamped with work and school papers, but hopefully I will get to it this weekend.
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j
Former Member
Send PMMint Hill, NC - USA
Joined: 10/25/2007
Posts: 123
Vette(s): 1982 White Corvette, dark blue leather interior, 70,000 miles
Here's a good article
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Shane, I think Ernie might be right, that sounds alittle like the problems both he and I had and can be an easy fix by replacing the fluid (and limited slip additive) in your rear end. What you describe sounds a lot like the symptoms I had, especially being able to feel the grinding and almost a popping under your seat. Give it a try, can't hurt 
MARK
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7
Free Member
Send PMYelm, WA - USA
Joined: 7/12/2007
Posts: 356
Vette(s): 1979 L82 4 speed Scat 383 crank 190 cc Procomp Aluminum Heads 202 160 stainless valves GM Powder metal rods Speedpro H860CP Hypereutectic pistons 280 cam hydralic HEI Pro comp 1.6 roller rockers Mighty Demon 750 Sanderson CC1AP Hedders.
[QUOTE=shanes79]Ernie: Thanks for the info. Since the car is up on jack-stands I will go ahead and change the diff. fluid and add only 1 bottle of additive. Can't hurt right?
Im swamped with work and school papers, but hopefully I will get to it this weekend.
[/QUOTE]
Im swamped with work and school papers, but hopefully I will get to it this weekend.
[/QUOTE]
My vette shop recomended I use two of the little GM bottles in mine. Maybe they just wanted to move their inventory though 
I can tell you this sounds just like mine before I stopped driving it andI tore it all down. It would make a horrible grinding-scraping sound when making slow tight right hand turns but only after it had warmed up. It was a real oh si*t what was that noise. I really hope the additive fixes yours cause if it's the same sound mine had I know it's pretty horroble!
I can tell you this sounds just like mine before I stopped driving it andI tore it all down. It would make a horrible grinding-scraping sound when making slow tight right hand turns but only after it had warmed up. It was a real oh si*t what was that noise. I really hope the additive fixes yours cause if it's the same sound mine had I know it's pretty horroble! Be the first to like this post
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So here is where I'm at. I managed to remove the caliper without disconnecting the brake line. Its suspended by a handy-dandy wire coat hanger and is out of the way. I've drilled out the rivets per instructions from WETVET. darned rotor still wont come off!! Any tricks to getting this baby off? Here's what I've got so far:
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in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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