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Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling

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rear suspension

Posted: 11/7/05 6:26amMessage 1 of 13
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I am not good at diagnostics but enjoy working on my vettes. If someone could give an ear I would appreciate it. I started out with negative camber in the rear and some noises in rear wheels. I replaced universals in half shafts and replaced tie rods with new adjustables. Tie rod mount (box) was pretty bent so I straightened it out. All was well for quite awhile. I now have a noise, it sounds like a bad brake shoe spring ( clanking as though it is catching on something ) in the left rear wheel, problem is they are all disc and look perfectly fine. The end of the rear spring has guaged out the wheel weights on inside of rear wheel. This is not constant when there is no noise the clearance between the inner wheel and spring end is fine. The spring looks quite flat and maybe should be replaced. I have no problem with replacing spring but it is all else to be done while I am there, like exhaust etc.....The fact that it comes and goes makes me think it might be something else like trailing arms. I would appreciate any good thought in this matter.

Thanks,
Russell
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rear suspension

Posted: 11/7/05 7:58amMessage 2 of 13
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KERNERSVILLE, NC - USA
Joined: 1/13/2004
Posts: 1355
Vette(s): 1968 L-71 convertible

Sounds like the trailing arm might have a bad bushing or maybe even a shim has worked loose. Check your pivot point at the frame, the bushing will be hard to see due to the shims, but if your getting that much movement, I'd start there.

By the way, you do have brake shoes in the rear, parking break, they tend to get overlooked quite a bit.

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rear suspension

Posted: 11/7/05 3:08pmMessage 3 of 13
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Hey, I think your right on.  The inside of the arm at the pivot, frame side, looked a bit sloppy.  I could move things around with my finger.  I am hoping to take up slack with shims and not taking the trailing arm off.  What are the chances that the parking brake is another issue as far as the noise ?  My other vette is making the same noise.  It comes with either applying brake or letting off.  It seems to have no affect on the operation of anything.

                Thanks for the advice,  I need the confidence to takle the job.  I don't think I need a shop yet.

                   talk to you later,

                        Russell

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rear suspension

Posted: 11/7/05 3:24pmMessage 4 of 13
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KERNERSVILLE, NC - USA
Joined: 1/13/2004
Posts: 1355
Vette(s): 1968 L-71 convertible

If you're getting a noise when you apply the brakes, I doubt it's the parking break.

As far as the trailing arm, try shimming it first, but if the shims got loose (they should be pinned or safety wired in place) It may have damaged the bushing. It's not really difficult to remove the arm, time consuming, yes. Also keep in mind that the shim align the rear wheels, it may take a littl trial and error to get them set back in correctly.

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rear suspension

Posted: 11/7/05 3:33pmMessage 5 of 13
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BINGHAMTON, NY - USA
Joined: 7/19/2003
Posts: 3825
Vette(s): ......
You aren't gonna take up the slack with the shims,if the rubbers are shot ,they are shot.it's time to replace them.it'll make a good winter project.as for the sound of brake parts rubbing ,Yes the parking brakes are in the center of the rotor ,and they can and do come loose and roll around inside the rotor,and make lots of noise and do damage .I personally would pull the control arms off ,replace the bushings,replace the parking brake parts,and if in doubt while you have the arms off,replace the spindle bearings as long as you have the arms off its much easier to do with them off the car.or if you have a lot of cash to burn  ,just buy new or rebuilt trailing arms with new bearings and parking brakes and rotors installed,then all you have to do is put them back on .Good luck whichever you do,any problems give us a yell

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rear suspension

Posted: 11/7/05 10:53pmMessage 6 of 13
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East Hanover, NJ - USA
Joined: 9/25/2004
Posts: 525
Vette(s): '68 Black Conv. Matching 327/300 4 Spd. P/S, P/B, P/W, Tele, A/C

Mako,

All I can say is be prepared..........In an effort to replace one of my trailing arms & 1 bent strut rod last year, I ended up replacing everything.

As you take things apart on these older cars, don't be surprised if you find more things wrong, or your dissasembly causes more problems.  I ended up damaging the lower shock mounts.  Also, there is the thought process of "since I'm here anyway" which will usually lead to spring & shock changes and frankly, it's a good time to do such projects.

I'm not trying to discourage you, you will definitely be happier after the work is done.  The good part is that you will have all winter to complete your project and you can use this time to make any upgrades that you have in mind.

If you end up pulling the t-arms, send them out to one of our sponsors to be rebuilt, it's definitelty worth the money & they'll be as good as new.

Once the new parts are in & treated to a good alignment, all the effort will be worth it.

Good luck,

Anthony

 

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rear suspension

Posted: 11/18/05 6:54pmMessage 7 of 13
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Hey thanks for all the feedback.  I will take it all apart and soon.  I am not one to waite and worry, it has to be done.  Some things just take time to even start, this is one of them.  Once the car is up on jack stands and disassembled I will see all and hopefully have to replace half.

              Thanks Again,

                      Russell ( mako )

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rear suspension

Posted: 11/19/05 10:31amMessage 8 of 13
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Virginia City, NV - USA
Joined: 1/19/2005
Posts: 314
Vette(s): 1979 Coupe, white in color

One other problem no one mentioned, for good reason, is the common stub axle problem our differentials have. The stub axles in the diffs can and do wear against the pin that holds the spyders gears. This is a problem. that at some time or other, hits at lot of Vettes. The way to check it is to see how far the stub axles move in and out of the housing. I found mine to move an excessive amount. Upon disassembley, I found the stub axles worn down to the snap ring, which makes snappin noises on starting from a stop.

Dave

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rear suspension

Posted: 11/19/05 5:07pmMessage 9 of 13
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Hello Dave,

    While the car was on a lift,  I jacked up the frame at the rear. I gripped one rear wheel with both hands and could push to see the spindle move in and out of dif.  At the same time I noticed a leak at the pinion seal at that entry point.  How do you know the amount of acceptable movement (play ) ?  Remember the end of the spring had wheel weight lead stuck to it.  It was actually gauged from inside of right rear wheel.  I can drive the car sometimes without a problem, at that time there is enough space between wheel and end of spring.

                        Thanks Dave, you really have me thinking.

                                                  Russell

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rear suspension

Posted: 11/19/05 8:04pmMessage 10 of 13
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CUYAHOGA FALLS, OH - USA
Joined: 12/2/2003
Posts: 6424
Vette(s): 1975 C3 Red, T-Tops, Black Interior. All I need is time and money! Getting there!

If you can see the stub shafts moving, they are too sloppy.  Only a few thousands of an inch is allowed.  This also controls the position of the rear wheels.  It stays upright based on the arms, and the drive shafts.

You will need to do the stub shafts and clips sooner or later.  Probably sooner.  You will want to replace the seal at the same time.

Don't feel lonely, this is common.  I will need to replace them in my car.  But I have some other things to finish first.  No, it's not getting much driving right now.  Too much to do.

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