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Well I finally figured out the p/s fluid puddle on the floor is coming from the control valve and not one of the hoses like I thought. It looks like it's coming out of the cap on the driver's side end. (I think there's an adjusting nut under there IIRC?) Is it typical for them to leak out that end?
I rebuilt this bad boy when I had the motor and front suspension out, 5 or 6 years ago. No leaks from it until now, but still disappointing my rebuild only lasted that long. I'm tempted to live with it this season in the hope that about a year from now I can go to a Borgeson. Get rid of the problematic valve, cylinder and especially all the $^^#@%$ hoses that I've replaced too many times to count.
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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t
Yes it is common at the end of the end cap. I, like you, rebuilt mine (76) about 5 or 6 years ago and I think the only thing wrong was the *$#ing little O-ring in the end of the body (it was broken clean). The instructions were good, but a lot of work to do all that just to replace that stupid little O-ring.
I lived with that leak for about 5 years, but got sick of it so sucked it up and did the rebuild. It has held up since, but I am dreading the day it starts again. When and if it does, I will probably do the rack & pinion also and just spend the $. Until then, it seems to work fine (as long as I keep it well aligned and after I rebuilt the front suspension).
You can spend a little more and replace the whole unit, but it is still a lot of work to get everything off just to replace it and you still have to deal with all those hoses and the bleeding, etc. I have also heard dubious things about the rebuilt units (poor quality and might crap out shortly thereafter).
Good luck.
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Thanks, Tom. Good info. Sounds like we went through a similar process - I bought a kit from one of the vendors and went through the decent instructions I found online. Not hard, but lots of details to do correctly.
Probably can't replace that o-ring with the valve still installed???
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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t
My recollection is that you have to disassemble the control valve and the o ring is the last part out and first back in. Therefore, no option but to remove it from the car. It is a PIA for sure.
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2016119191545r.jpg)
Free Member
Send PMWILLIAMSTOWN, KY - USA
Joined: 12/5/2002
Posts: 131
Vette(s): Silver Anniversary 1978, L82?, 4-speed
I replaced my power steering control valve about a year ago (and put all new lines on at the same time) and a few months later it started leaking. Luckily it was still under warranty and I got a replacement at no cost. Since it hadn't very long since I first replaced it, the disassemble was fairly easy.
So far it is holding up ok.
2016119192810r.jpg)
Pappy's Toy
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I replaced mine twice in 14 years, but it leaked all the time, steering was way too hard. I finally put in the Borgenson steering box. Works great, and no more cylinder & hoses down there. I now have power steering that works. Good luck with yours.
Dave
Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82 
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Thanks for the responses, all. Yep, sounds like I'll be living with this particular leak for a while. Just too much work to tear it all down and have it leak free for only a few years or less. If I tear it down, it ain't goin back in, that's all I have to say.
I've always wondered why GM used such a complicated, Rube Goldberg-ish design there. Seems like there were other cars from the era that had the power assist built right into the steering box. I wonder if it was to avoid having to design a power steering specific box....
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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