Sponsored Content
I've got 10W-30 Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil in mine right now (synthetic, ZDDP, $$$) but I think I'm going to switch to Shell Rotella next time, a little bit less $$. If I'm not mistaken, it's synthetic and has ZDDP as well. I think it also has a 15W-40 weight that I might try.
Not sure about the "old cars using synthetic" thing but I just rebuilt my original motor so hopefully synthetic should be fine.
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support Vette Registry)
2011111017209r.jpg)
daveo76 said: I've got 10W-30 Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil in mine right now (synthetic, ZDDP, $$$) but I think I'm going to switch to Shell Rotella next time, a little bit less $$. If I'm not mistaken, it's synthetic and has ZDDP as well. I think it also has a 15W-40 weight that I might try.
Not sure about the "old cars using synthetic" thing but I just rebuilt my original motor so hopefully synthetic should be fine.
Dave, I wouldn't use snthetic oil UNTIL the piston rings have been seated. This is what some say:
We recommend using petroleum 10w30 motor oil on break in to ensure proper piston ring seating. If you allow 1500 to 2000 miles in a street engine or 20 to 30 minutes on the dyno at low rpm, the rings will have had sufficient time to seat and the high initial break-in wear will have occurred.
corvette440hp
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30, one bottle of ZDDPlus, Bosch filter once a year.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
A few months ago I had a talk with an engineer from the Brad Penn Oil co. I was concern about breaking in my new engine. I was told that Brad Penn oil was a great choice and already had the ZDDP in it. He told me that there was ZDDP in the Brad Penn oil but that I needed to use an actual break in 30 weight oil. He stated that the use of any synthetic oil on a new motor can keep the rings from seating. When I ask him about the break in oil he told me that I needed to drive the car once I had completed the 25 minute break in for approx. 150 miles. At that time I could go to the 10-30 Brad Penn oil. I plan on doing that this week.
Rodney
Rodney
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
I enjoy all the good feedback. This is helping me to decide how to take care of my 69 427. I do have a small oil leak from the rear main seal. I am concerned about switching to a synthetic. Will I develop more leaks?? Do I keep the same Valvoline Max life 10w40 and add zddp? I am looking at Brad Penn oils? I know there are so many options. Just trying to sort it all out.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Free Member
Send PMFrederick, MD - USA
Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398
Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
The molecules in synthetic oil are smaller and more uniform than dino oil, so they can slip through any gaps in seals and gaskets. If you have a leaking rear main seal, you'll be depositing expensive synthetic oil on the street rather than through your engine's oiling system.
As far as which oil is best for your engine, look at it this way...the cheapest oil on the market today is far, far better than the best oils available when your car and engine were built. If you get the rear main seal replaced, feel free to use synthetic, dino or a synthetic blend. It's your choice and your money. Your engine will be happy either way as long as you choose the right oil for your expected driving conditions.
I have a '69 427/435 and use dino oil and I don't see where I'm at any disadvantage. Regular oil and filter changes are the secret more than the brand oil or whether it's synthetic or otherwise.
As far as brand goes...yes there can be differences, but the Quaker State, Castrol, Pennzoil or whatever brand you buy today is not the same as the same brand and weight oil they made a year ago. There's no mom and pop oil refineries. Oil companies are constantly changing their formulas to meet the requirements of car makers, the EPA, race teams, etc.
I think it's better to stick with the same base oil than the brand...there's paraffin base and asphalt base dino oils...they have differing characteristics but are refined to do the same job with the necessary additive packages. While the differences are or no significance, somehow I think it's better to stick with the same base oil. Even then, most US pumped oils are of a grade to be easier to refine into lubricants than mid-East pumped oil, so those oils are more often refined into fuels. If that's the case, the point of base oils is likely moot.
Just my opinion.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Concerning the use of synthetic on a new or newly rebuilt engine: there appears to be a lot of debate on this topic. I just spent some time on the Joe Gibbs Driven Oil FAQ site, and, while that exact question is not answered, there is an FAQ of "How long should I leave the break-in oil in" and here's the answer:
Frequently Asked Questions
How long can I leave the BR in my new engine?
Joe Gibbs Racing uses the BR for the first 2 hours on a new or rebuilt engine to break-in the cams and seat the rings. After 2 hours on the dyno, JGR switches to the correct viscosity synthetic oil for that engine build.
=============================================================================
I didn't use Joe Gibbs break-in oil in my new motor but I did use Comp Cams break-in and left it in for 100 or 150 miles after the cam break-in and then switched to the Joe Gibbs hot rod oil. I should be good as far as ring seating. I hope.
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
7
Just rec'd Mid America Motorworks catalog that has ACDelco filters for $9.99.
Does the factory run new Corvettes w/ conventional oil before replacing w/ synthetic and shipping them out?
Does the factory run new Corvettes w/ conventional oil before replacing w/ synthetic and shipping them out?
1973 L-82 4 spd
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Free Member
Send PMFrederick, MD - USA
Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398
Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
Modern LS engines are made to extremely close tolerances and GM engineers feel there's no need for a non-synthetic break-in oil. Since LS engines have been in Corvettes since 1997 with no problems in that regard, it seems that they were right.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
7
So is the theory that synthetics are so slippery that the the rings will never "seat"?
1973 L-82 4 spd
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
Sponsored Content