oil change schedule after cam break-in
Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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So the cam is broken in and initial timing is set, but nothing else. When should I do my first oil change? Right now? I broke in the cam with Comp Cams break-in oil. I imagine it's pretty gummy now from all the ass'y lube in there. So if I change the oil now, when should I do it again? The reason I ask is the oil I just purchased is Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil (w/ zinc already in it) -- $10/qt. When I put that stuff in I want it to be the last oil change for a while. If I should change the oil again after a few hundred miles, I'll probably go with something a little cheaper and just put a zinc additive in. Thanks!
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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I would suggest running it until it gets to operating temp, let it sit for 10-20 minutes, and then change the oil filter. The filter should have already caught a lot of the break-in doo-doo. Change the filter, add whatever amount of oil needed to bring it back to full, and then put a few miles(100 or so) on it before changing the oil to the real stuff you want to use. Moly lube/assembly lube normally gets caught in the filter, and in some instances, can stop the filter up, but the oil itself is still quite usable.
That's my opinion on it....others may have a different protocol...
That's my opinion on it....others may have a different protocol...

Joel Adams
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Thanks, Joel. Sounds like a good plan to me. I can do some more tuning while it's running up to temp!
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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Amen to what Joel stated.Excellent advice. I did not see or note whether or not the engine has flat tappet cam or roller lifter cam.There is no reason,other than choice,to use oil with ZDDP if you have a roller cam.If you have the typical flat tappet then yes you can use a typical 10x30,10x40 Castrol etc. oil,however I have been using Shell Rotella 15x40 in my vehicles(4 of them)with ZDDP in their oil and have had excellent service.
I have heard the Shell Rotella T also has 10x30 with ZDDP in the formulation and would be a good winter grade.
I would,as Joel suggested,change the filter,bring back up to full(assuming you filled the new filter before installing)and go man go for maybe at most 200 miles then change all to your oil of choice and then schedule your oil and filter change to a max of 3000 miles on standard flat tappet cam and 6000 of synthetic oil(Royal Purple only) and standard oil for Roller cam/lifters.
Have a great day and good luck with the engine..Happy Motoring
|UPDATED|8/17/2012 12:31:27 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
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Yep, it's a flat tappet cam, hence the need for ZDDP. I'll try out this Joe Gibbs stuff for now since I have it. But I'm open to other ideas for the next oil change. (Although mine are always controlled by time rather than miles)
Sounds like there's agreement about putting 1 or 2 hundred on it with the break-in oil as long as I change the filter first. That's what I'll do! Thanks for the advice, guys.
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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7
Shell's Rotella would definitely be cheaper than $10/qt.

1973 L-82 4 spd
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in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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