Mushy brakes / not stopping like they should
Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
25 Messages
Page 2 of 3
Sponsored Content
R
NOPE, FRONT FOR THE FRONTS AND REAR FOR THE REARS
C3VR Lifetime Member #93
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support Vette Registry)
Try bleeding the final old rear caliper, sounds like you might have a bad rubber hose at the trailing arm preventing any fluid from flowing to the pistons. They collapse or clog up. I've had 2 front hoses clog over the years, both on the same Vette. I'd still replace the caliper regardless, tho.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
n
Free Member
Send PMCharleston AFB, SC - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 111
Vette(s): 1979 Cream Beige Coupe w/383 & 700R4
Alright, took off the rear pass caliper and it was squirting fluid from the pistons too. Ugh. Replaced it with a new one, and while braking is better, the pedal is still mushy. Next step is master cyl I suppose 
defsegx 2007-11-05 19:14:30
Apparently I did something to piss off the big guy in the sky.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
n
Free Member
Send PMCharleston AFB, SC - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 111
Vette(s): 1979 Cream Beige Coupe w/383 & 700R4
Alllllright, well tonight I changed the master. I think there is still air in the lines, but it stops probably 2x better now. I think the master (along with most of the other braking system haha) was the problem. I bet if I get a pressure bleeder now and bleed it, it'll be as good as it's going to get.
Wish I could find a place around here to buy one, but nobody seems to carry them. I suppose I'll purchase one online.
-Josh
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
e
Lifetime Member
Send PMLanoka Harbor, NJ - USA
Joined: 12/21/2006
Posts: 2191
Vette(s): 1975 metallic blue coupe with t-tops,L48, t/t steering, black leather interior. 1990 L98, white/red leather interior, auto,a/c
ebay has them. been thinking about getting one myself. just inquistive here, how are the front brakes?
LIFETIME MEMBER #97
THE DYNAMIC DUO
THE DYNAMIC DUO
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
[QUOTE=defsegx] I bet if I get a pressure bleeder now and bleed it, it'll be as good as it's going to get. [/QUOTE]
If ya get one, throw away the J-hooks and chains that come with it and get a couple of C-clamps to attach the fixture to the master cylinder.
Got mine from Apex Performance.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Lifetime Member
Moderator
Send PMModerator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22720
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Pressure bleeders THE way to go on our cars. It's just sooooo much better, quicker, and easier. Takes me about 10 minutes to bleed all four corners by myself.
I'll bet you still have air in the system. When you bleed to the rear calipers, use a rubber, or plastic mallet to tap on the calipers. This will dislodge any air bubbles that are stuck to the sides of the caliper. The design of the rear calipers makes it easy for air to find hidy-places in them.
Also...did you bench-bleed the master before installing it?
I'll bet you still have air in the system. When you bleed to the rear calipers, use a rubber, or plastic mallet to tap on the calipers. This will dislodge any air bubbles that are stuck to the sides of the caliper. The design of the rear calipers makes it easy for air to find hidy-places in them.
Also...did you bench-bleed the master before installing it?
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56 
My Link 
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
n
Free Member
Send PMCharleston AFB, SC - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 111
Vette(s): 1979 Cream Beige Coupe w/383 & 700R4
This isnt handling related, but i have to share this story.
defsegx 2007-11-06 21:23:20
Went to Wendy's 2 hours ago, brakes working wonderful (better than ever), if still a little squishy.
Turn off the car at the speaker so they can hear me... and when I put the key in the run position, the car starts chugging. It was like the batt was almost dead, and the starter was turning the engine over slow, but I never went to start it. I freak out and try to turn the key off, and do, but it still does it for like 20 more seconds. Smoke starts pouring out of the hood, and everything goes black in the car. No electricity at all.
I'm guessing the starter solenoid and starter are toast now, probably the battery too. I hope nothing else besides that. Had to have it towed home for $80.
And to top it all off, when pushing it to a parking lot, I ran over my big toe on my left foot which is bleeding now and i can't really move it. I think it's probably broke but I'll go to the hospital tomorrow morning.
Oh man God hates me.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Those things just seem to happen in series. not sure why. But, since you have a 79 - I'll tell you what I did on my brakes with similar symptoms. Ended up replacing all the calipers, then the master cylinder (there was leakage in all of them)..then it still was mushy...hmm..bled multiple times...still mushy...guess what - those stupid rubber lines when old can expand and hold enough fluid to feel a bit soft. Went to SS hoses from MidAmerica...wow, worked great for the first two stops - but the third took a lot of effort and didn't slow me down like it should. Hmm...felt like I had no power boost. Turned out the power booster check valve went bad and the "filter" that is inline on my car is an effective flow restrictor limiting how quickly the power brakes recover. Tossed the filter in the trash (you don't need it) and a new check valve (6 bucks at NAPA) and I have fantastic brakes...can lock up all 4 with little effort.
Good luck and I hope your toe heals quickly.
C3: 1979 Corvette Coupe, Auto, L-48, Red/Doeskin (my wife's fave);
C4s: 1986 C4 coupe (SCCA road race car), satin black, 4+3, Z51 package, L-98; & 1993 C4 coupe, white, 6-speed, LT-1.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Man that's a bad day.
That filter is not worthless. Yes the brakes will work fine without them. But the filter is there to stop moisture from collecting in the lines and booster. When moisture is there, the brakes can freeze in cold weather and the pedal won't push down and apply the brakes. GM came up with the filter to fix this cold weather woe.
I put a LOT of them on as a recall back in the 70's.
Be the first to like this post
Sign In to Like this post
Sign In to Like this post
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
Sponsored Content