Front Brake Rotor Replacement

O.K. guys, I am getting ready to replace my Original Front Rotors. I know that the factory Rivets have to be drilled out,(What Fun) but, my question is this...How do you reattach the rotors to the hub with the new rivets? Do I need to rivet them back on? I bought the replacement Rivets along with the new Rotors and would like to make sure the job is done right. I will be replacing the barings and seals at the same time along with new brake pads. Calipers and lines were done a couple years ago. Thanks in advance.....

They do not HAVE to be riveted.  Since they slide over the lugs and are held in place by the wheels they are secure.

Thanks for the reply. I also mentioned this one during the chat time last night and got pretty much the same answers.   

Yeah...the rotors do not need to be re-riveted to the hubs. There are very few places that can actually do the rivets correctly, anyway, and the hub surface and the rotor surface have to be absolutely clean, or you wind up with run-out...best to just leave em loose.

Thanks Joel. I have an idea what "Run Out" is but, can you tell me exactly what is meant by the term and how to correctly determine the proper travel is on the callipers or determining it on each brake set up? much appreciated...

Run out is how much the rotor wobbles when rotated.   A dial indicator is put on the surface of the rotor and it is slowly turned one rotation.  It should read less than .002 inch.  If you get to .010 you can perhaps start to feel it pulsate in the brake pedal.  Between those you may find a low brake pedal due to pushing the caliper pistons back too far into the calipers when the brakes are released.  This requires a longer pedal stroke to apply the brakes.

I used 3/4" long 3/8" coarse thread flathead allen bolts to reattach my rear rotors on my 78SA. You need to countersink the holes in the rotor hub and tap the holes in the flange. 3/8" tap will work with the existing rivet holes. Took maybe a half hour per rotor to do each one.

Ken, thanks for the explination. Never used a dial indicator before and wouldn't know how to without instruction. I've done lots of brake work in the drive and shade tree but, never that technical. I'm sure a proper shop would have them though. I was surprised to see that the rotors I ordered from Corvette America were made in China just like the ones they sell at Advance Auto or Auto Zone for a bit less    Thinking of having them turned before I even try putting them on the car. Have had trouble with made in China rotors before and had them turned and helped a lot. Anyway, thanks again.

Mike, thanks for the idea on the tapping and the allen bolts idea. I still haven't made up my mind just what I am going to do. Hmmmmm