Changing U-joints (driveshaft and yokes)

Has anyone changed out their U-joints. I already have the new U-joints and getting ready to set aside a weekend to begin the project. Any help would be much appreciated. I have changed U-joints on other car's driveshafts, but never on a vette and never changed out the yoke assemblies.

I haven't done this yet, but I will be in the next couple years. Sure would be nice if you took pictures along the way and post them to the site along with an overview of the work involved.
Thanks

Sounds like a good idea. I have a digital cam, so I'll document as I go.

I bought my brother-in-law 2 six-packs and he changed all 6 for me...

It's pretty much the same as any other car, but I did find it was easier to put the new ones into the yokes first, then the drivelines. No worrys.

Just like woody1 said. It's like any other car.
I just finished putting in all new universals in my '81 the other night. I was isolating each component (i.e. wheel bearings/differential/pinion bearings) by removing the halfshafts, so I could rotate each component sepately and listen and feel for my "mystery" vibration my car picked up the other day. Well in the process of removal, I bumped the end of the halfshaft and the end cap with all the needle bearings in it hit the ground and flew all over the place. So 80 bucks and a 12pk of Coors later(=2.5 hrs.)I changed all of them.
It should take you about 3-4hrs to do. I had a lift and torches to use, which cuts down on the work time. Just make sure that the new joints don't bind when they are installed. If they bind up, take about a 7/8" socket and a hammer and tap one side of the universal joint (where the retainer clip is). If it gets tighter then tap the opposite side until the joint turns freely.
Have fun! Sarge

I changed mine in my 74 a couple of months ago. It was easy but did require a press to get the old u joints out of the half shafts and to install the new ones. Remember to check the placement of the zerk fittings if you are installing ones with the fittings. If you are not carfull the fittings will not be accesible. (I know this from experience.)

Have fun
Tony

I was a prepared to start replacing the U-joints when I developed a brake failure, which I believe I have finally narrowed down the problem. As soon as I can get the time, I'm going to start on the rearend. I am going to go ahead and install the stainless still parking brake hardware, turn the rotors while I have them off and do the U-joints. Thanks for the input.

I just changed the U-joints in my C4 last weekend. I did the C3 rear suspension this past spring - but I took the entire T-arm assy and half shafts and diff to Tony's Corvette for new U-joints, powder coating, T-arm rebuilding, new rotors (turned with the assy) etc, etc...

1) ONLY use Spicer U-joints. The other brands are crap.
2) Make sure if you decide to use U-joints with Zerks they're installed in compression, not tension as they tend to break at the zerk.
3) In 1970 they came with solid Spicer U-joints, no zerks. I'm not sure about the later years. The current Heavy Duty Spicers are as close configuration wise as you can get to the originals (at last for 1970).

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/juliet/rearsusp.htm