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Changing Main & Connecting Rod Bearings

Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling

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Changing Main & Connecting Rod Bearings

Posted: 5/21/09 11:58pmMessage 1 of 4
j
Former Member
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Bloomfield Hills, MI - USA
Joined: 6/29/2008
Posts: 199
Vette(s): 1975 Corvette coupe, 4 speed manual, 383 ci 9.5:1,Edelbrock dual plane Air Gap intake, Alum Heads,Comp Cam, roller Rockers, PS,PB,Tilt
My oil pan is really dented and I bought a new one to replace the old one. on my 350 CID V8.
 
While I'm in there, I want to replace the main and connecting rod bearings as I have a vibration at 2500-3500 RPM and I'd like to eliminate the bearing as a potential cause.
 
Has anyone done this and how long should it take? Should I buy standard, plus .001 undersize and .002 undersize before I start the job, as I believe you need to replace them one at a time if you leave the engine in the car. Where is a good place to get main and connecting rod bearings and is there one kind that if prefferable?
 
I went to AutoZone and they  have a good technical article on how to do the replacement.
 
Also question on the oil pump, I likely should replace it, but should I go with the standard one or the heavy duty one.
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Changing Main & Connecting Rod Bearings

Posted: 5/22/09 8:18amMessage 2 of 4
V
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Mounds View, MN - USA
Joined: 5/24/2007
Posts: 1034
Vette(s): 70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe
Replacing bearings is not a big job.  I always use Clevite.  You don't know what size until you take them out and check.  Undersized bearings are always stamped on the back.  It is best if you can mike the crank, but that is almost impossible in the car.  To do the main bearings, loosen them all a couple of turns to let the crank down a bit.  Then just push out the old and push in the new.  Use assembly lube or just coat them with oil.  Retorque the mains, and turn the crank until one rod throw is low enought to change them.  Repeat for the other three throws.  Retorque everything just to be sure. 

The standard oil pump is perfectly adequate for a stock or slightly modified engine.  A high pressure or high volume pump just wastes horsepower. 

Put a little silicone sealer in the corners when you put the pan back on.

As an afterthought...  I can't imagine a way that worn bearing could cause a vibration.  If the problem is in the engine, the most likely culprit is a failing harmonic balancer.  But a vibration is usually in the drivetrain.

Larry
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Changing Main & Connecting Rod Bearings

Posted: 5/22/09 8:48amMessage 3 of 4
j
Former Member
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Bloomfield Hills, MI - USA
Joined: 6/29/2008
Posts: 199
Vette(s): 1975 Corvette coupe, 4 speed manual, 383 ci 9.5:1,Edelbrock dual plane Air Gap intake, Alum Heads,Comp Cam, roller Rockers, PS,PB,Tilt
How do you find out if harmonic balancer is bad?

Driveline should be ok, new pilot bearing, clutch, rebuilt 4 speed manual trans and diff and new u joints

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Changing Main & Connecting Rod Bearings

Posted: 5/22/09 8:53amMessage 4 of 4
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Grapevine, TX - USA
Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 1537
Vette(s): 1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air. 2017 Black Rose Grand Sport M7 convertible.
While your in there, you may as well replace the rear main seal.  I did mine, so it has to be easy.

   

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