Camber adjustment

New member could you some help with my 77 Corvette just purchased it from older couple that had the whole rear differential rebuild at bars in Pennsylvania few years back. I noticed that the drivers rear wheel is tilted in lots of negative camber and with car on ground hands-on top of wheel I feel a little movement like spindle is loose when I jack it up I can barely feel it no movement from three to 9 o'clock at all parts on the car still look new question is first going to try to adjust camber which way do I turn the bolt after I unloosen the nut to bring top of tire out and how much do I need to turn the bolt need to move tire about a 1/2 inch thank you

We'll got over my fear and got my camber set close , but I still have a little movement up and down the half shaft move with it. Should hAlf shafts move at all ? Both side move some , but drivers a little more The couple couldn't remember when work was done maybe 8-10 years but very little miles and parts still look new. Probably their grandson got hold of it. Lol

in reality there should be no movement at all, but..... a few things could be going on here... wheel bearings, u-joints,differential side yolks, trailing arm bushings..... 

Ok that what's the best way to remove spring? Put jack under and slowly lower? With tire off And when I put pry bar in outside of hub hole and lift I see half saft and trail move some but no slop. No side to side movement will take it apart to get better look

We'll got it tore apart left the spring on. half shaft off. looks like bearings can't see it , but can feel it no side to side just in and out wonder if sitting in one spot can damage them ? Have to do some research maybe can get bigger shim thank for your help. Jim

wow, someone's been productive this afternoon.... when you say you can feel the axle move in and out, just how much movement?... this is where a dial caliper and a magnetic mount comes in to play to see how much in  and out movement there is.... while i am no expert by any means, and cannot recall off the top of my head(and hope someone else(JOEL??) ) the maximum amount of endplay should be before having to replace the bearings(for some reason 0.015 inch comes to mind, but...might be 0.01...) 

You can check the play in the axles, both inner and outer with the 1/2 shafts out. If all is good there should be no play in the outer axles( trailing arms) and little in the inners ( differential).

For comparison my builds are as follows but these are built beyond common tolerances.

Differential axles- 005-007" with a tuned posi and rebuilt axles. If you have the original axles in the diff then those are soft faced, original axles from about 72 -79 were very poor and wore down and if not corrected will wear into the housing seal bores damaging them.

 

Trailing Arms- I machine fit them not for the common 002 endplay you will read about all over the net. I set them for -0- lateral play which will be about 001-0015 endplay. At 003" endplay you will be able to push the axle in/out by grabbing a wheel stud. The factory spec is 001-008".

|UPDATED|5/25/2017 7:39:00 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Haven't seen any forum restriction on posting links.

1968junkerjim: Are the strut rod rubber bushings is good shape?




|UPDATED|5/25/2017 7:55:45 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

see, i knew someone out there had more specific info than i could give.  very knowledgeable group of folks here.  

|UPDATED|5/25/2017 8:05:50 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

ok if this is ok fine, if not then you can pull it. If you want the diff threads I can link them too. Maybe you have seen these? I can't believe it's been 10 years since I wrote these, man time flew by.