break-in oil

I am not endorseing this product or any other. I just use it as a reference to show that today's oils are different than the ones used 20 years ago.


I think we all agree that break-in is necessary.


Break-in


Take it for what it is worth.

I guess I am a little unorthodox on lighting up an engine for the first time after assembly.

I use a 50-50 mix of 10W-30 and diesel fuel, light up the engine, adjust the valves and run up from idle to 1000 RPM for 45 minutes to an hour at no load to flush assembly particles and residue. Then let the oil drain overnight, change the filter and refill with whatever I plan to drive it on, drive it a couple of weeks all over the range, but well below redline, drain it again and change the filter again, then run the crap out of it.

I didn't read this anywhere, just dreamed it up, but it has always worked for me.....

Thanks everyone for giving me thoughts to this.   

Iron822006-12-22 23:08:04

Fact is that the new formulated mineral oils made today are not good for us guys who run flat tappet camshaft's,the reason for that is that the oil company's don't put in the friction additives in as much as they used to, the reason for that is because most new motors run roller cams that don't have the friction problems that a flat tappet cam has, second, the sulfor additive gums up the oxygen sensor in the exh.pipes which throws off the computor and so on,thats the reason I recomend running oil made for diesels like the Sheck Rotella or GTX Traction Extra 15-40 Wt.they still have the friction and heat additives, as far as breakin run a good 10-30 oil with a can of GM EOS and change at 500 miles, don't forget to pre lube the motor before starting, for you guy's who going to buy a new flat tappet camshaft or kit make sure to buy a good made in the USA product, when everyone went to roller, there became a shortage of flat tappet lifters being made in the USA, so a lot of flat tappets were coming in from overseas, THEY SUCK.anips2006-12-23 10:52:21

I'm installing an Edelbrock crate engine. They recommend using any quality 5-30W motor oil for the first 1,000 mile break-in. They also want the GM additive supplement #1052367, to be used. I contacted them about, using synthetic oil, they said DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL for the initial break-in. I already knew that.........but they did not state that in their installation instructions. The rings DO need to get seated, with the mineral oil. I'm going to change the oil and filter after 100 miles. I'll still use the 5-30W mineral oil, until the 1,000 mile mark. After 1,000 miles I'll switch to 10-30 (Edelbrock recommended), but I WILL use synthetic oil. The brand, that I'm going to use is Royal Purple. Nothing but the best for my engine! I hope this might help, or cause more confusion.

Royal Purple has been demonstrated in Hot Rod Mag to offer a slight horsepower gain, but they are sure proud of that stuff at the cash register.

My Caddy CTS-V with the LS-6 specifies 5W-30 Mobile 1.

Dave

The following link has what appears to besome good info on oil.

 

[QUOTE=anips]
Fact is that the new formulated mineral oils made today are not good for us guys who run flat tappet camshaft's,the reason for that is that the oil company's don't put in the friction additives in as much as they used to, the reason for that is because most new motors run roller cams that don't have the friction problems that a flat tappet cam has, second, the sulfor additive gums up the oxygen sensor in the exh.pipes which throws off the computor and so on,thats the reason I recomend running oil made for diesels like the Sheck Rotella or GTX Traction Extra 15-40 Wt.they still have the friction and heat additives, as far as breakin run a good 10-30 oil with a can of GM EOS and change at 500 miles, don't forget to pre lube the motor before starting, for you guy's who going to buy a new flat tappet camshaft or kit make sure to buy a good made in the USA product, when everyone went to roller, there became a shortage of flat tappet lifters being made in the USA, so a lot of flat tappets were coming in from overseas, THEY SUCK.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for that article dwright. 

 After reading all the post and articles, it sounds like to me the best protection for a new flat tappet cam engine are the diesel formulated oils, even after break-in? That's what I have in it now. I had them drain out the 30w Penn after I asked them if they changed the oil after the cam break-in. They said no...duh. How do I manage to find evey idiot? I got to the shop just as they were changing it..cold..another duh. I've come to the conclusion there are no good mechanics in Sherevport, La.   longhorn2942007-01-17 15:53:38