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Braking problems

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Braking problems

Posted: 10/30/07 5:09amMessage 1 of 20
f
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Toledo, OH - USA
Joined: 2/22/2007
Posts: 175
Vette(s): 1977 auto.L48 383 stroker
I have a 77 and recently noticed that my brake pedal has gone all the way to the floor with little braking ability.  Also, my brake light has come on in the dash.  The harder I apply the brake, the harder the wheels turn to the lefton it's own.  I am unsure of what is going on, could this also be an issue with my power steering?  Thank you to all for your feedback with this problem, I really appreciate it!
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Braking problems

Posted: 10/30/07 5:15amMessage 2 of 20
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22720
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
You apparently only have brakes on the left front wheel...not a good thing!
Pedal going to the floor would be due to a leak in the system, whether external(hose/caliper leaks), or internal(master cyl bleed-by). If the master cyl. is full of fluid, then you need to replace/rebuild the master. If it is low/empty on one or both sides, you have a leak, probably at the calipers.
I don't think the problem will be anything to do with the steering system..

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Braking problems

Posted: 10/30/07 5:49amMessage 3 of 20
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Spotsylvania, VA - USA
Joined: 1/20/2007
Posts: 293
Vette(s): 1977 Silver Coupe
Yup. I had a hard time getting my brakes to do  the right thing. It took a New Master cylinder, new rear lines, and calipers all around. I couldn't see a leak, but the calipers were getting air when I applied the brake and let off. 
Hope this helps.
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Braking problems

Posted: 10/30/07 5:53amMessage 4 of 20
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Jacksonville, FL - USA
Joined: 8/27/2007
Posts: 32
Vette(s): 1979 Coupe
Don't forget to check the brake lines. Mine had to be repleced because of "old age". That alone was a big contributor to pulling left.
 
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Braking problems

Posted: 10/30/07 7:22amMessage 5 of 20
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Toledo, OH - USA
Joined: 2/22/2007
Posts: 175
Vette(s): 1977 auto.L48 383 stroker
Thank you all for the help...i will be sure to check these things out!  I have not noticed any brake fluid leaking on the floor where it is parked but will take a better look, thanks again!
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Braking problems

Posted: 10/30/07 8:51amMessage 6 of 20
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Horse Cave, KY - USA
Joined: 10/22/2007
Posts: 488
Vette(s): 1968 convertible; 1980 L-82
Check rotor run out while you're doing the R&R.  If run out is out of whack, the calipers can draw air into the system.
 
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Braking problems

Posted: 10/30/07 8:53amMessage 7 of 20
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Victor, NY - USA
Joined: 7/12/2004
Posts: 6842
Vette(s): 2004 Commemorative Edition Coupe, Auto w/HUD. 13K miles in 2015. Sold 1982 Red Coupe
I have had this problem several times in the last three years.
Pulling to one side is definitely a problem.
Mine was a frozen caliper. Replaced both last year.
Also replaced the master cylinder due to internal leak.
Make sure the rotors don't have more than .003" runout. More than that will cause pumping air into the pistons.
Make sure the system gets thoroghly bled, starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and working toward the closest.
If you have to replace components, buy quality. This is not an area to be frugal.
 
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Braking problems

Posted: 10/30/07 4:03pmMessage 8 of 20
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Yelm, WA - USA
Joined: 7/12/2007
Posts: 356
Vette(s): 1979 L82 4 speed Scat 383 crank 190 cc Procomp Aluminum Heads 202 160 stainless valves GM Powder metal rods Speedpro H860CP Hypereutectic pistons 280 cam hydralic HEI Pro comp 1.6 roller rockers Mighty Demon 750 Sanderson CC1AP Hedders.

Yep just bought 4 new calipers, it's kind of hard to be frugal! LOLSome of the things I noticed on mine were stuck pistons on the front, the rear calipers were full of goo never beld correctly, very uneven brake pad wear between the calipers, looks like one of the rear calipers was doing most of the work. I had all my rotors turned. Some of my calipers were aftermarket sleeved with lip seals and some were stock, only one rear caliper was a rebuild candidate. My local Vette shop accepted my coresClap, most places I found won't give a credit for sleeved cores and that was my biggest obstacle. So I got four new lonestar SS O-ring calipers for 400 bucks and they are the stamped Delco Mor's. I am shopping around for SS lines and new pads right now.  

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Braking problems

Posted: 11/2/07 5:21amMessage 9 of 20
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Toledo, OH - USA
Joined: 2/22/2007
Posts: 175
Vette(s): 1977 auto.L48 383 stroker
I found that the master cylinder was low on both sides.  This appears to imply that I have a leak at the calipers as Adam suggested.  What do I need to do now with the calipers?  Can they be fixed or do they need to be replaced.  Also, what exactly do you mean when you say "check the rotor run" and "it may be out of whack".  I do not fully understand this.  Thanks for your time and help!
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Braking problems

Posted: 11/2/07 9:32amMessage 10 of 20
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Yelm, WA - USA
Joined: 7/12/2007
Posts: 356
Vette(s): 1979 L82 4 speed Scat 383 crank 190 cc Procomp Aluminum Heads 202 160 stainless valves GM Powder metal rods Speedpro H860CP Hypereutectic pistons 280 cam hydralic HEI Pro comp 1.6 roller rockers Mighty Demon 750 Sanderson CC1AP Hedders.

Someone smarter than me will hopefully correct this if I'm wrong. I'm doing my brakes now and this is what I've learned so far. Calipers can be rebuilt if the cylider walls are not corroded. You have to break them down and inspect them, it's real easy. You want your rotors to have uniform straight surface as they spin where they make contact with the pads, if they have too much runout (warped) it will pulsate the caliper pistons causing air to be drawn into the system through the lip seals, I just learned that myself Wink  Also it will cause stress on your wheel bearings, cause noise when braking, pulsating brake pedal, and uneven pad wear. I always let a shop mess with my rotors, it's fairly cheap about 5-10 bucks per rotor,  they will turn them so they are true, basically they put them on a lathe and resurface them. Most rotors can be truned unless they are really warped or don't have enough thickness on them left. After that I throw them back on the spindle with new bearings and then check with a dial gauge if you still got probelms it's time to take a closer look at the spindle.         

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