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Send PMDeBerry, TX - USA
Joined: 2/27/2002
Posts: 1006
Vette(s): 1971 383 Stroker- mille miglia red...5 speed
While trying to bleed my brakes today, the bleeder on the right rear broke off. 
I tried to be gentle, working back and forth, but they had never been bled since I've owned it. Can I get that out with maybe an e-z out? Would I have to completely remove the caliper? Anyone who's done this, I'd sure appreciate some help. As C. W. McCall said in 'Wolf Creek Pass', my brakes are sorta like steppin' on a ripe plum
I tried to be gentle, working back and forth, but they had never been bled since I've owned it. Can I get that out with maybe an e-z out? Would I have to completely remove the caliper? Anyone who's done this, I'd sure appreciate some help. As C. W. McCall said in 'Wolf Creek Pass', my brakes are sorta like steppin' on a ripe plum I know the voices aren't real, but they have some pretty cool ideas... 
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Send PMBUCKHANNON, WV - USA
Joined: 1/4/2002
Posts: 475
Vette(s): 81 T Top Beige in color
Longhorn, Sorry I can't help but this a great question, I can't get my break light to go off. I know my brakes need to be bleed again. I replaced pads and calipers on the front but I can't get the light off. I assume they need to be bleed again. Can't wait to read what everyone says.
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If all is right with the system, very firmly pressing the brake pedal should reset the warning light. Mike
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R
I had that problem B-4,breaking off the bleader screw,after breaking 2 E-Z outs trying to get it out,I went down to advance auto and bought a rebuilt caliper.Important safety tip;before even attempting to loosen bleeder screws,give them all a good shot of P B Blaster and let them soak for a while 15 minutes or so and then give them another shot b4 you brake them loose,I use a six point socket to get a good grip on them,no open end wrenches,then take them all the way out and clean the threads with a wire brush,apply a thin coat of Permatex blue brake caliper lube then reinstall them,it makes it a lot easier the next time you want to bleed them.for the question about the brake light not going off,there is a switch on top of the proportioning valve,when there is a pressure inbalance in your brakes a shuttle valve inside moves toward the side of the valve with the lowest pressure which activates a plunger on the switch and turns on the brake light.Like mkapp 78 79 said most of the time,very firm pressure on the brake pedal will reset the shuttle valve back to its center and the light will go out.if that does'nt work,you may have to loosen the switch on top of the proportioning valve and pull it out far enough to let the valve center itself then reinstall it .good luck
C3VR Lifetime Member #93
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Lifetime Member
Send PMDeBerry, TX - USA
Joined: 2/27/2002
Posts: 1006
Vette(s): 1971 383 Stroker- mille miglia red...5 speed
Thanks, Ron. Did you drill out the hole to get a larger e-z out bit in or just used the original little hole? I know those small bits will break very easy. I'd rather fix this one for now because I want to get a set of SS calipers after I recover from this coming engine rebuild.
I know the voices aren't real, but they have some pretty cool ideas...
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