To my surprise the transmission would not shift on it's own. It would shift when I backed off on the gas. It did shift from the lower gear at the appropriate time it just would not engage in the next higher gear (engine just rev'd up).
There is no slippage when it is in any of the gears if I hand shift the car. It runs between gears just great.
Before my breaks went out I put a couple of hundred miles on it and never had a shifting issue at all. The only difference is, just before I stared the break job I added more transmission fluid.
I read the thread on that and now realize that I overfilled it by a bunch.
I plan on getting a pump and pumping some of the fluid out through the dip stick.
So I was just wondering if that has anything to do with the transmission or did I suffer a transmission failure and if so is there any thing I can do short of paying someone to rebuild it.
I took the 11 and 13 year old grand kids to Disney World and that ate up my repair money for the next six months or so.
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You sorta contradict yourself in the description, so it's a little confusing...
You say "would not engage in the next higher gear (engine just rev'd up).", then you say "There is no slippage".
A damaged governor gear can also cause this, depending on how it is damaged. If the gear is damaged, it may make a 1-2 shift, but then fall back into 1st on the 2-3 shift, which might make it feel like it neutralizes, but in fact it is going back into 1st.
Check your cable where it connects to the throttle body, and see if there is any fraying of the cable, or if the cable will move in-out smoothly. If the cable will not move nicely, the most likely cause is internal cable damage. I would start with a cable check, then pull the governor out to look for a damaged gear. If neither the cable, or the gov show any signs of damage, it would be time to remove the pan, and have a look-see...

Joel Adams
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I found that the TV cable was disconnected. (of course after I drained the fluid). There was a minor amount of sludge in the bottom of the pan. I would assume that was because of the car sitting so long. It was sitting for most of its life only has 45,000 on it. I would also assume that some of this sludge is in the transmission.
I have it back together now and just got it out on the road. I think I have some of the same problem but not as bad. The cable move easily. I will run it this week on the freeway and see if it shifts or if the engine rev's up high between shift points.
Thanks.
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700s don't like running with the TV cable disconnected, or loose for any reason. Hopefully, it hasn't been driven much with it disconnected. That cable is the only thing that tells the trans how much throttle you're giving it, and that is the only thing that controls the internal(line) pressure of the trans. With no cable input, the trans will be in a low pressure state all the time. The trans needs the pressures to correspond to throttle input in order to keep the clutches/band from slipping. You can seriously burn the 3-4 clutch-pack in a 700 without the cable connected in just a few miles....I can wipe one out just going around the block on a test drive!

A small amount of "sludge" is prolly ok...all trannys produce some funk in operation. If there is a quarter sized deposit or larger in any spot....that's not good.
You may want to adjust the cable now that it is connected. I have the procedure posted here somewhere...I'll look for it, but now, it's off to werk I go!

Joel Adams
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Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.
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Is there a way to check and see if the transmission is ok or is that a professionals job. Or if it drives drive it because it cannot hurt it any worse. That is after adjusting the TV cable.
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Does a 700R4 have a fluid filter?
I'm asking and wondering if a filter got clogged up with sludge when it was overfilled. If so, would changing the filter help?

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This is just the basic cable setting...it will normally require fine tuning once you get the cable to the "starting position". It is best set with a pressure gauge, but...it's not totally necessary. When it says to "pull on the cable housing in the reset direction", pull hard.

When you push the accelerator pedal down after that, you will hear the cable "click" into position. This is where you will start the actual adjustment, because the cable will usually go too far past where it really needs to be, but it will be close. Drive the car, and see how the shifts feel, and at what speed. You do NOT want a 700 or 2004R shifting too early or soft. That indicates the cable is too loose, and it will contribute to trans damage. If your car is in overdrive at 30 mph, the cable is too loose. Yeah, you may gain some MPG, but it will be at the expense of your trans. Take the time, and adjust the cable properly, and you'll never have a problem related to low pressure. And... by "take the time", I mean just that...it make take you 30-40 minutes of driving, stopping, and adjusting to get it right.(right, Dennis?

If the cable is right, you should be able to get a downshift/passing gear from 2nd into 1st at 25 mph easily.
hth.
Yes, the 700(and all automatics) has a filter. Overfilling an automatic will not cause sludge. Sludge is a by-product of fluid that is basically used up, and the normal wear/tear of the trans. About the only real problem with overfilling is leaks, and the fact that the geartrain is now running immersed in fluid, which will aerate the fluid to some extent. The trans will normally "burp" the excess fluid(or most of it) out once it get hot.

btw...this info is only for those of you that have 700s, or 2004R trannys in yer cars....don't try this on your 350 trans!
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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