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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
You can remove/replace the cover with the diff in the car. You need to remove the spring, and the side crossmember mounts.(you already have the strut rod bracket off, I think?) Then the bolts holding the cover to the diff. Have a drain pan under the diff to catch all that nice smellin fluid!
Once the cover/crossmember is down, you can remove the top 4 bolts that hold the cover to the crossmember. Some people can get their hands up in there to get the bolts out with the crossmember still in the car, but...not me!
Install in reverse.
Once the cover/crossmember is down, you can remove the top 4 bolts that hold the cover to the crossmember. Some people can get their hands up in there to get the bolts out with the crossmember still in the car, but...not me!
Install in reverse.
Joel Adams
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f
Yes, I already have the strut rod bracket off. So that I am clear the diff. cover and the crossmember you are referring to are one in the same, correct? I appreciate your help, thanks again!
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22742
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Take a look at the top diagram in THIS LINK for an idea of what's what on your diff. The crossmember is a separate part from the diff cover. As I said, some people(Longhorn249) have been able to get to the top 4 bolts that hold the cover to the crossmember with it still in the car, so you might be able to also. I think it's easier to take the whole thing off, but that's just me.
I hope this diagram helps.
) have been able to get to the top 4 bolts that hold the cover to the crossmember with it still in the car, so you might be able to also. I think it's easier to take the whole thing off, but that's just me.
I hope this diagram helps.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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Joined: 5/18/2004
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Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
If your shock mounts came out with not too much hassle, then I'd venture a guess that the 2 bolts (that's right - only 2!!) holding the rear cross member up will not give you too much of a problem. Soak them with PB Blaster or another solvent and you should hopefully be able to remove the 2 bolts.
The crossmember and rear cover will come off as a unit. Reverse the process to put everything back together. Did it on mine with no problems. Also, use a quality gear oil to refill the diff and don't forget the positraction additive.
Good luck 
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Send PMLanoka Harbor, NJ - USA
Joined: 12/21/2006
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Vette(s): 1975 metallic blue coupe with t-tops,L48, t/t steering, black leather interior. 1990 L98, white/red leather interior, auto,a/c
you might want to go vansteel.com. they sell a dvd (or video cassette)
of doing the suspension on the front and back. shows you step by step
of one of their mechanics disassembling the suspension and
reinstalling. very detailled.
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f
The studs that I am referring to are in the bottom of the differential carrier housing. These are the four bolts that the strut rod bracket mounts to. If I am understanding you guys correctly, by replacing the end cover will do me no good. I think my only choice is to drill the studs out and use a threaded insert to correct the original diameter of the bolts. Please respond so I am 100% sure what I need to do or if I am not understanding this correctly. Thanks again for all of your tremendous help!
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1
What you are referring to as the carrier is actually the cover. The carrier is mounted in the front half of the housing.
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22742
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
You are correct. The strut rod bracket bolts to the differential case itself...the spring mounts to the cover.
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Sorry for any confusion I added to this. I got side-tracked when some mentioned the diff cover, and I just went with it, not fully reading the post...
Adams' Apple 2007-04-11 05:22:40
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Sorry for any confusion I added to this. I got side-tracked when some mentioned the diff cover, and I just went with it, not fully reading the post...
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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f
Thank you, I am much clearer now. Do you recommend that I drill the studs out and use helocoils (threaded inserts) to bring the diameter down to the original size or use the existing studs and tap new threads for the remaining two holes? I am concerned that any drilling may potentially crack the case or drill too far into it making a really big mess of this! Thanks for the insight!!
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22742
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Without actually seeing what you have there, it's hard to make a call on that. The bolts/studs should be fairly easy to drill out, I would think, so I would probably go that route, myself. Can you not get the studs to turn at all?
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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