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73shark said: I think the cut out was just to ensure that you got it inserted all the way to pick up all of the shifters. Are you planning on adjusting them before you put get back in the vehicle?
I was planning on inserting the tool, then mount the shifter, then install the transmission, then see that the rods line up correctly.
Since the shifter does not mount to the transmission itself, I don't see any other way of doing it.
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m
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Send PMEquinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2570
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
On my 72' I put transmission in, then the shifter, then the brackets to attach it, then inserted my home made adjustment tool and adjusted the shift rods. It was a BEAR! Be interested to know how you accomplished the task. Exaust pipes go on last. No room to work in the tunnel.
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manchestershark said: On my 72' I put transmission in, then the shifter, then the brackets to attach it, then inserted my home made adjustment tool and adjusted the shift rods. It was a BEAR! Be interested to know how you accomplished the task. Exaust pipes go on last. No room to work in the tunnel.
I had a bear of a time getting the shifter out when the transmission had already been removed. I can't imagine working around it to put the shifter in. I had a time just unhooking the shifter rods.
The exhaust pipes are in place. They are welded in and in good shape, so I'll be working around them at least. I'm not looking forward to this job!
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m
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Send PMEquinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2570
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
Do you have the single pipe with converter to deal with, or true duals? I have true duals, which makes for less space to work in.
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manchestershark said: Do you have the single pipe with converter to deal with, or true duals? I have true duals, which makes for less space to work in.
Mine has true duals. No converter.
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I was dreading putting the shifter back in since I had such a hard time getting it out. But I just got it back in without an issue. I have no idea now why I had such a time getting it out.
Next step is pulling the transmission apart and rebuilding it. I read that Borg Warner transmissions have an issue with jumping out of 2nd gear, which is what mine does. I may be hunting for a 2nd gear-set once I get it apart.
I was reading about C3 Corvettes, and the indication was they they usually had Muncie transmissions. Anyone know if that is true?
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7
I think they changed to BorgWarner around 1975 or 76.
1973 L-82 4 spd
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Bill I also have a 4 speed 75 and it has the alignment hole I just made a piece to stick in there.
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22714
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Corvettes have used both BW and Muncie transmissions over the years. Your '75 will have a BW Super T-10 unless it has been changed sometime in the past. I have never run into any specific design failures on either. One is not necessarily better than the other, other than the M-22 Muncie, which simply has wider, and straighter gear teeth.
You can get dang near any part you need for a Muncie or BW from Kajun Jon .
Joel Adams
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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