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7
Okay, it got so bad that I can't even wash the car anymore without getting a half-gallon of water IN the car. It is time for new weatherstrip!
I have my eyes on this kit on eBay, but would like to have any recommendations on removal (tools/products) and the same for adhesives?
Thanks!
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Stephane,
I just received that same kit from ebay. Quality appears good. I have not gotten around to install yet.
Let us know how it goes.
Save the WAVE.
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Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22720
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
I don't know what brand the w/strip is there, but mine was "Soft Seal". It is a very good quality. You should wipe all of the new w/strip off with denatured alcohol before trying to glue it on. That will remove the 'release' agent from the rubber. If you don't clean this crap off, the adhesive won't stick to it. 
Don't ask how I know 
You need to use 3M Weatherstrip adhesive, either yaller or black (good ol' gorrilla snot!). The factory used yaller, but it was a lighter shade than what comes in the tubes you can buy at the parts places. If you're not concerned about being 100% 'correct', the black is the same stuff, jest a different color. Get some 3M Adhesive remover,also, as it will help remove all of the old glue holding the w/strip on now. It's a LOT easier than just scraping with a razor blade for 2-3 days!(don't ask how I know THAT either!) Check that your new T-top w/strips have the goofy little plastic pins in them, 'cause you will need them to attach it to the tops. Mine had these pins, but I've heard of some that required you to salvage your old ones to use. If you take your time, and work carefully, it should turn out jest fine! It does require that you remove the forward header trim at the front of the windershield, and you have to get the old w/strip out of that trim first. Then seal the backside of that trim back to the w/shield header with some urethane sealer, to keep it from leaking behind the trim. Have fun!!! 
ps...That's a nice lookin' '74 ya got there!!Adams' Apple 38475.785
Don't ask how I know You need to use 3M Weatherstrip adhesive, either yaller or black (good ol' gorrilla snot!). The factory used yaller, but it was a lighter shade than what comes in the tubes you can buy at the parts places. If you're not concerned about being 100% 'correct', the black is the same stuff, jest a different color. Get some 3M Adhesive remover,also, as it will help remove all of the old glue holding the w/strip on now. It's a LOT easier than just scraping with a razor blade for 2-3 days!(don't ask how I know THAT either!) Check that your new T-top w/strips have the goofy little plastic pins in them, 'cause you will need them to attach it to the tops. Mine had these pins, but I've heard of some that required you to salvage your old ones to use. If you take your time, and work carefully, it should turn out jest fine! It does require that you remove the forward header trim at the front of the windershield, and you have to get the old w/strip out of that trim first. Then seal the backside of that trim back to the w/shield header with some urethane sealer, to keep it from leaking behind the trim. Have fun!!!
ps...That's a nice lookin' '74 ya got there!!
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56 
My Link 
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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A bit of heat from a heat gun or hair dryer will also help clean off the old stuff.
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7
Thanks for the tips about the trim and the pins. (and I won't ask how you know all that!).
Just ordered the kit, so I should have a report card in about 2 weeks for this forum.
I guess I will opt the the 3M adhesive and remover; keep it simple.
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L
Former Member
Send PMLos Angeles, CA - USA
Joined: 1/27/2005
Posts: 260
Vette(s): 1972 elkhart green T-Top, New paint, one previous owner, 370hp/350, hookers/flowMasters. Original PW,PS,PB,AC. All docs.
Just ordered the same kit, great price - also sick of the "carwash flood".
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7
*** UPDATE ***
Weather stripping project status : DONE!
Overall rating : 8/10
It still leaks a bit, but not necessarely because of the weather strips I found out. I now have to adjust the angle of the window a little bit and find the cause of a very small leak on the tops. The previous owner had a strip of thin rubber all around the chrome of the t-top. It kills the look of the chrome, but I think it did the job! I'll see; I don't take the car out when it rains, keep it garage and it only leaks a little bit and I pressure washed it. I might live with it!
Here's my tips :
-the 3M remover is very good, but very strong. It will go throught rubber gloves in no time (the ultra thick one's too). Make sure you are in a very well ventilated area (I was, and still had a pretty good headache and dizzyness).
-the 3M adhesive/sealer (pasty, black) is good too, but I wonder if I should have used the clear (yellow) in spray. The one I used takes a little while to create a good bond, so as soon as you're done with one strip; keep it tight under pressure right away (like close the door, lock the T-Top, pull the window up,...) so it can apply even pressure at the right shape.
-tools : I have seen tools in a catalog, but 25$ was a bit too much. The T-Tops were the most difficult. It was very hard to squeeze both side into the metal rail (on the door side of the t-top) and under the very small edge. I got creative by using a paint can opener (which double as a beer opener too!). To remove the pins, just take your time with long nose pliers, they will all come out without breaking of you pull them slowly and re-grip.
-if you use the 3M adhesive/sealer, once you applied it, GO FAST! It doesn't dry hard right away, but enough to not allow you to move up/down and squeeze the strip inside the edges of the t-tops and the side window. It get's sticky real quick.
** I just re-read Adam's reply, and that could be the cause of not sticking hard right away, should have cleaned them with alcohol first.
You are right about the windshield header, it is kind of a sensitive area and there is a small leak over there too.
Last tip : I took my sweet time, and it took over 10 hours over the weekend. Don't rush it or think you will have it done in less than 5. Remember to take a walk outside after every strip. The 3M stuff is really irritating.
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L
Former Member
Send PMLos Angeles, CA - USA
Joined: 1/27/2005
Posts: 260
Vette(s): 1972 elkhart green T-Top, New paint, one previous owner, 370hp/350, hookers/flowMasters. Original PW,PS,PB,AC. All docs.
Many thanks for the update and tips, will go slow and leave lots of time to
finish when I try to tackle it (got the kit in the mail last week).
finish when I try to tackle it (got the kit in the mail last week).
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V
i`ve looked at these kits and some others from Bair`s and Mid-america. I have an early model 69 coupe and i`m looking to replace the weatherstrip for the t`s and the windows. According the Richard Prince`s Corvette restoration guide the early 69 uses a different weatherstrip at the window (which would be just over your shoulder ) than the later models.I didn`t see any reference to this on any of the kits. Any comments about this would be appreciated. If you have the guide it would be helpful for you to check it out.
Thanks, Bob
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in Forum: C3 Electrical, Body and Interior
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