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Hello Folks, just purchased a 1982 C3 Collector Edition. The T-tops, top of door window frames are rather noisy in sounds being made. Any cure for getting rid or reducing these noises? Thanks. Chic
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Sounds like the weather stripping might need replacing. They dry out after so long. Also, make sure the T-tops are adjusted tight. Good luck.
Larry
The difference between men and boys is the cost of their toys!!
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Former Member
Send PMMilwaukie, OR - USA
Joined: 10/19/2015
Posts: 71
Vette(s): '78 Silver Anniversary T Top coupe,58k orig miles.
THM350 auto, 350 L48, JBM headers,Oyster White interior,.as of Nov '15 in process of painting.
First I'd remove the T Top, roll the windows down and take the car out to insure THOSE items are the offenders.
***IF windows rattle when they are down, you'll need to remove the door panels etc and see what's wrong..More on that later.
Then roll windows up, T Top off and listen..with car going down the road of course..:)
Do windows rattle now?.
If so, look at pillar and rear rubber weatherstrips and window lower felts & weatherstripping for missing or damaged-work issues.There are two felt inner and the outer and a chrome-rubber final outer weatherstrip for each door window.
IF they all look good..:
Now look at the T Top rubber gasket-moldings and see IF they look to be in good condition.
NOW look at the nylon insert-bushing in the T Top mounting rear plate to see that it is there and intact.
Also look at the nylon inserts on the T center roof frameworK that are shaped like flattened ovals to see IF they are there and in good condition....:
IF SO:
The T Tops can be adjusted to fit properly..
To adjust the T Top, remove the panels and first close the latching mechanism.
hings look good.....
Now LOOK at the pointed rod that inserts into the rear body T Top mount bracket-hole.
IF properly adjusted, there is a thin circumferential scribed mark on the pointed rod that should be right at the edge of the T Top framework with mechanism in closed position and rod extended.
.
IF you can't see that scribed mark, the rod will need to be adjusted so that the scribed mark DOES show with latching mech in CLOSED position.Rod will need to be turned counterclockwise to extend it a bit.
I believe the rods can be extended out or retracted inwards by carefully rotating them with a pair of padded pliers.
IF this adjustment is needed and made..Take the car back out on the road and listen..again.
IF there's still noise from the T Top:
Finally, adjust the bolt with pad on the front of the T Top so the T Top closes more snugly.
This requires you back the bolt out a tiny bit at a time until the T Top mechanism is CLOSABLE but not so tightly adjusted that you need a blacksmith's arm or cheater bar to latch it home.
IF you get it TOO tight, you can actually push the front pillar post a few thousandths of an inch and distort that..which is BAAAD.
So a few road checks during the tweaking process will be needed.
It's possible that each T Top will end up being adjusted slightly differently than it's mate so take your time and be patient..
The car was not made with the precision of a fighter jet..
Once you get all to the place where the T Tops seem to fit well and there's no noise, close all and give the car's top & windows the water spray test..
You should have zero leaks.Zero noise.
IF the windows still rattle, Check to insure your door panels are screwed down snugly & correctly to the door and look again at the inner and outer window felt-weatherstrip and the outer chrome-rubber finishing strips.
You may want to install some small rubber insert bushing critters in the lower window door felt area..Or replace lower window weatherstrips and felts( three separate items each door)
The rubber bushing critters are aftermarket and pretty cheap..I have not used them myself but apparently others have..when they didn't wish to replace the window felts-weatherstripping..or those who won't remove door panels to insure the window internals are snug and properly adjusted.
Check the obvious issues first..then work to the more subtle possible causes and correct.
Last option is crank the music up or wear earplugs I guess..but I'm one who prefers to get to the bottom of such matters and fix them up so they are as right as possible..
Hope this helps..Jim
|UPDATED|11/8/2015 11:44:51 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

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C
You folks are wonderful and generous with your time and advice. Will begin the analysis based on what you all have said. Chic
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Former Member
Send PMMilwaukie, OR - USA
Joined: 10/19/2015
Posts: 71
Vette(s): '78 Silver Anniversary T Top coupe,58k orig miles.
THM350 auto, 350 L48, JBM headers,Oyster White interior,.as of Nov '15 in process of painting.
He's a CORRECTION to my earlier post..
ORIGINALLY:
"
SHOULD READ:
IF properly adjusted, there is a thin circumferential scribed mark on the pointed rod that should be right at the edge of the T Top REAR MOUNTING PLATE on body with mechanism in closed position and rod extended."
Jim

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Excellent post, Jim!
What are the "rubber bushing critters" you were talking about?
What are the "rubber bushing critters" you were talking about?
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C
Outstanding Post "Jim", rubber critters or not. Smile Chic
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7
And if the radio and/or ear plugs don't work, put on some side pipes.

1973 L-82 4 spd
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C
Side Pipes - Now that is really old school. Chic
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d
after last post on radio my be this does work turn radio up noises will allways be there you can replace all the weaterstrip on car I did still make all adjustments 60 mph you cant talk to pass best fix put on side pipes and air muffs dwa
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in Forum: C3 Electrical, Body and Interior
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