Horn and Relay Location (81)

Horn is not working  (I have been working on cars for years and I am at the point of being beyond imbarrased about needing help on this one - It usally is quite obvious).  I belive the relay on the horn is working because the volt gage jumps and I hear it click when I push the horn button.  Question is:  Where exactly are the horns located?  Also, can someone advise me where the relay for them is too. 

Not sure about the horn relay but the horns, if in the same place as an 82, are located in the front part of the inner front fenders (one on each side).  You can see them, barely, and almost touch them from underneath the car.  As far as actually getting to them I think either the inner fender well or the nose will have to be removed... ain't vettes fun !!!

Thanks, I will look closer tonight.  Guessing I should take the nose off and fix the other stuff too...Good Vette fun! 

If your car is the same as a 76, the relay is hanging by its wires just to left of the fuse panel, above and left of the brake pedal.  The ones I've seen are about a one inch cube, pale pink or yellow in color.  The horns themselves are just inboard of the headlights.  If you open your hood and look into the gap by the forward edge, you should be able to see them.  The anchor bolts are also the grounds for the circuit.  Once you clean those, if it's still not fixed, your problem is probably under the horn ring...Chevy used crappy insulators and contact rings.

Gary, any recommendations to improve the contacts and insulators on the horn?

Stolen from http://corvettec3.ca/tips.htm :

Here is my tip for fixing the horn retainer by eliminating the horn contact post and replacing it with a spring and wire.  Yes, it is only a $20.00 item but any place you can save and fix it your self is a good thing.  The horn cap retainer is a weak design, held together with plastic rivets.  The key to this repair is the plastic bushings that can be found at any Ace Hardware store.  I made a new insulator gasket out of plain gasket material as the old insulator usually is broken or missing.  I guess the temperature spikes has a lot to do with it coming apart.  I have used screws and nuts with locktite to hold it all together but have found pop rivets to be a lot cleaner.  I have also eliminated the post and spring with a wire and spring.  The pictures below will hopefully help with your repair.

Replacement parts are pretty cheap, too: http://www.bairs.com/page81.asp

The best way to eliminate whether the horn itself is bad or not,is to check voltage to the horn.  You need a volt ohm meter, remove the wire to the horn and have someone press the button you should read about 12 volts., or jump a wire with voltage on it to the horn directly in either case if the horn is good it should beep.