headlight switch removal

Okay,Thanks.I do have an assembly manual.I haven't dove into this project yet.I just ordered the switch the other day.I just wanted to get an idea of what i'm getting into.

Hi Wayne.

I've had to get to it in my 73 twice, once in replacement for a burnt rheostat and once for securing the electrical connector. Yeah, it's not easy. Like Gary said I removed the gauge panel screws, dash screws on the door jam, and the 2 steering column saddle trim screws at the bottom dash. I don't remember loosening any steering column support bolts though: was able to flex the panels enough to get to the switch connector and vacuum tubes. The nut that holds the switch in place is like a barrel nut, requiring a 2-prong deal to insert and torque. My "deal" was a little deep socket with shaved edges that made 2 prongs that fit. Might get by using a needle-nose pliers in the nut's slots. 

Take some care with the dash/panel flexing; might be extra brittle and may break easy. Mine didn't, but .....

Good luck.

Steve 

Thanks Steve,I'm waiting for my switch to get here.I'll dive in when it gets here!

          Thanks again,Wayne

I was going to ask this same question myself today....

I do remember replacing the radio speaker just above the headlight switch. That was not easy and yes loosening the steering column under the dash and on the firewall was required to gain access to the switch/speaker. (1972 Coupe)

And now another question. I see different switches sold for replacement. The import, which I assume is junk, and another about $80 which is USA.  They also confuse you more with 7 prong and 8 prong. What's the story before I start on this?     Thanks

Definitely loosen the steering column. In fact, if you're going to loosen the bolts, you're only  a hop skip and jump a way from just taking it out. That's my route, because I try to not let it hang unsupported as it puts a lot of stress on ball bearings in the column that are a real PIA to replace. When they go, it's like gravel in the column when turning the wheel. Been there, done that. Twice.

My real reason for piping up on this thread is the tool for getting that dang barrel nut out and back in to the switch itself. Turns out there's not a single flat blade screwdriver in my arsenal that will hit both sides of the nut... but I do have a paint can pry bar that is just perfect:

Vaughan Mini Pry Bar

As far as the 7 or 8 prong switches go, I'd get the old one out and look at it before ordering. I think it had something to do with parking lights, but my memory is hazy on that detail. I'd just make sure you know what you need first.

And DO NOT FAIL TO MARK THE VACUUM CONNECTOR orientation - BEFORE you pull it off. There is nothing more discouraging than discovering that your headlights don't pop up after you have this all put back together. 

Been there, done that. Twice.

Steve