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can anyone help me...the fiberglass has detached from the header bar in front of the hood can it just be rebonded or is it more serious than that what repair material do you recommend thank you very much
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Welcome to the forum.
Not sure what the factory used but if I was going to fix, I'd try Loctite's polyurethane adhesive.
Not sure what the factory used but if I was going to fix, I'd try Loctite's polyurethane adhesive.
1973 L-82 4 spd
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201482913352r.jpg)
yep,had the same problem.
|UPDATED|8/13/2017 9:55:01 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
there are few posts on here about it.
i never cut the bar out to redo it.
what i did was took a 9 inch sander an put 2 sanding discs back to back and went
between the gap and slowly carefully cleaned it up.
then filled the gap with adhersive.
used 2 straight edges and clamp to compress it to the level i wanted to put straight.
it was a 3M product.cant remember the number for it.
but there are plenty f body adhersives on the market now that would be just as good.
it worked out fine.
|UPDATED|8/13/2017 9:55:01 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
1979 Corvette
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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
The actual header bar is riveted to a fiberglass bonding strip, and then the bonding strip is bonded to the underside of the hood surround. IF, and that's a BIG if, the rivets have not corroded and pushed the header bar away from the body/bonding strip, you can "glue" it back on with the proper adhesives as mentioned. It's a tedious job to do with the body on the car. Look carefully across the nose of the car to see if you can see any evidence of corroded rivets trying to poke up into the body from the underside. If so, just rebonding the header bar to the body will only be a temporary fix, as the rivets will continue to be a problem. 
Joel Adams
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g
With the early C3's the aluminum rivets do corrode and push up. On my 69 I didn't want to cut into the glass to remove them so I ended up removing the bar, as mentioned the metal bar is riveted to a glass bonding strip then "glued" under the nose. I believe this changed in 73 with the urethane bumpers but that should be confirmed since it's been awhile. The replacement bars are made to compensate for the bonding strip and thus not needed. In my case I found a NOS stock strip at Bairs. I have not reinstalled it after all these years, the car is still sitting. There were some 2 part epoxies on the market 12-15 years ago and I'm sure there are still plenty. 3M had some but you should be able to find all of them online. Good luck post on what you find and use. If you pull the bar like I did make sure you get the buckets lined up and marked before gluing them in. I had the engine out and had access under the nose. I had to chisel it out. It supports the nose too so be careful.
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thank you all for your response i thought it would be a little difficult to do myself i think i'll check with a paint and body shop that specializes in vettes thank you again everyone
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in Forum: C3 Electrical, Body and Interior
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