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Hey everyone, I'm new to the registry. Just bought a 75 had it for about a week. No problems. Started fine. One day I pulled it out of the garage to show a friend. After about 20 minutes I jumped back in to restart and put back in the garage and nothing.
The battery is good, as is the connection. I checked the wires on the starter and they look good. I even checked the switch on the clutch pedal. Everything seems to be working good, but when I turn the key I don't even get a click.
Anyone have any ideas? I can't even drive my new baby until I get her started
Thanks,
Glenn
The battery is good, as is the connection. I checked the wires on the starter and they look good. I even checked the switch on the clutch pedal. Everything seems to be working good, but when I turn the key I don't even get a click.
Anyone have any ideas? I can't even drive my new baby until I get her started
Thanks,
Glenn
Glenn's Bright Blue 75 T-Top
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

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Send PMToledo, OH - USA
Joined: 9/4/2002
Posts: 147
Vette(s): 1976 Stingray, L48 auto Buckskin/Buckskin Leather originally. Numbers matching.
Bad nuetral safety switch.
Bad fuse-link in wiring.
Bad solinoid(?) on starter.
Bad ignition switch.
Short in wire from key or battery to starter.

The first thing I would do is find out if there is any voltage at the starter, from the battery and from the key when ignition switch is turned to the start position. If not, then you would start back-tracking up the wire until you find voltage. I believe there is a fuse-link in the wire from the key whick could have blown. I haven't had a manual shift that the nuetral safety switch (at the clutch pedal) has gone bad, but I would imagine it could be the problem as well. It could even be the ignition switch gone bad. But I would start with the voltage check at the starter.
Bad fuse-link in wiring.
Bad solinoid(?) on starter.
Bad ignition switch.
Short in wire from key or battery to starter.

The first thing I would do is find out if there is any voltage at the starter, from the battery and from the key when ignition switch is turned to the start position. If not, then you would start back-tracking up the wire until you find voltage. I believe there is a fuse-link in the wire from the key whick could have blown. I haven't had a manual shift that the nuetral safety switch (at the clutch pedal) has gone bad, but I would imagine it could be the problem as well. It could even be the ignition switch gone bad. But I would start with the voltage check at the starter.
'76 L48 Auto
Project
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Thanks Bill,
I am going to check the voltage today.
Nice 76!
Glenn
I am going to check the voltage today.
Nice 76!
Glenn
Glenn's Bright Blue 75 T-Top
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

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Send PMBRADENTON, FL - USA
Joined: 8/4/2002
Posts: 669
Vette(s): 1972 convertible 350 auto trans, delux int, air, ps, pb, t/t wheel, pw, 79,000 org miles Rare one year only color
sounds like a bad solinoid, but my starter did the same thing and it was the brushes in it weren't making any contact from wearing down. i replaced the brushes and it works fine now but i plan a complete rebuild in the future
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quick update..
I checked the voltage and there is 12V at the starter, I jumped the starter and watched the volt meter. The 12V drained down.
I think it's the solinoid too. Thanks to everyone for their help!
I checked the voltage and there is 12V at the starter, I jumped the starter and watched the volt meter. The 12V drained down.
I think it's the solinoid too. Thanks to everyone for their help!
Glenn's Bright Blue 75 T-Top
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

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in Forum: C3 Electrical, Body and Interior
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