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body prep

Posted: 10/29/08 1:24pmMessage 1 of 8
m
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Equinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2573
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
 
   I took on a project car recently. Is it best to remove rubber bumpers to strip the body for paint prep? Both bumpers have been replaced with after market ones. The fit is not the best, and I am concerned that a color change will not cover well with the gaps in fit. Also what is best way to strip a plastic bumper? I am doing the work myself. I will no doubt use sand paper for the body, but not sure if a chemical will work or is OK for bumpers. THANKS     MARK
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body prep

Posted: 10/29/08 2:57pmMessage 2 of 8
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Holland Patent, NY - USA
Joined: 6/3/2008
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Vette(s): #1 *1980 White, Red interior 14,000 mile #2 *1980 Red, Oyster interior 93,000 miles Resto project car, rebuilt to 383 stroker
Mark, I found lot's of good info on corvette forum also.
You'll need to decide how much body prep you want to do. If your guna block it then chem strip it to the bare glass.
Keyster is a great info. source for ya. He's livin it.
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body prep

Posted: 10/29/08 4:03pmMessage 3 of 8
a
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Orillia, Canada
Joined: 6/23/2008
Posts: 558
Vette(s): 1972, 1980
The best that I have found is to have the body media blasted, but sanding will do. I have always had concerns with chem strippers, the will soak into to the bare fiberglass areas, and is hard to remove the soak. Take your bumpers off for a good job. After every thing is in final primer and block out...You can blow the paint to both insides let dry and assemble before complete paint. I have only sanded the bumpers to a smooth finish, then prime and block.
John
acplus2008-10-29 16:05:03
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body prep

Posted: 10/30/08 5:09pmMessage 4 of 8
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CUYAHOGA FALLS, OH - USA
Joined: 12/2/2003
Posts: 6424
Vette(s): 1975 C3 Red, T-Tops, Black Interior. All I need is time and money! Getting there!
Sanding is a lot of work, but gets good results.
Media blasting is also good, but requires the equipment.
Stripper is good, but not on fiberglass unless you use the stripper that will go to primer or gel coat, and stop there.  You can find it at body supplies stores.
 
Mine was sanded.  Just be sure not to go too far and start cutting into the fiberglass.
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body prep

Posted: 10/30/08 7:26pmMessage 5 of 8
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 22718
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
If what you have is the original style, urethane bumper covers, the paint will prolly fall off if you twist them hard enough!

I would have to recommend removing the covers in order to do a good paint, especially if doing a color change. Are these the "True-Flex" type covers? If so, you can treat them just like regular fiberglass, as far as stripping/sanding.
Chem stripping is a dirty, nasty, thankless job...
And....as has been pointed out, can ruin a paint job once it starts seeping back out....and it will...

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body prep

Posted: 10/31/08 9:07amMessage 6 of 8
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Mounds View, MN - USA
Joined: 5/24/2007
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Vette(s): 70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe
Some chemical strippers will distort the surface of urethane bumpers, so I wouldn't take a chance.  I agree with the majority who recommend sanding.  And if you sand with a long sander, you can get a lot of blocking done while removing paint.  If your car has original paint that is not checked, you can leave some of it on as you block down to gel coat in the high spots.  The more you take apart, the better the end result.

Larry
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body prep

Posted: 10/31/08 9:13amMessage 7 of 8
m
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Equinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2573
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
 
   The front bumper is history! I took it off in pieces. The rear is thick near the bottom, the back side is yellow color. It is a replacement, but not sure what it is made of. It appears to be soft and pliable, not solid. Are the true flex brand more solid? I am hesitant to put a sander to it, for fear of putting marks in it. Would it be OK to use a chemical stripper on it?
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body prep

Posted: 10/31/08 4:37pmMessage 8 of 8
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Orillia, Canada
Joined: 6/23/2008
Posts: 558
Vette(s): 1972, 1980
Sorry, still say...Sand by hand, I don't like chem strippers on vettes
John
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